HP Tuners problem
#13
I may have made some progress, ill let you know when i can verify it. Hit the throttle 10 times and it only stalled once. I imagine my low idle doesnt help it but i like the idle low so ill find a way to tune it out. What is your idle speed? Mine is at 610 in PN, 680 in D
#16
Bump here, any progress. I have the same issue with any quick throttle input and it wants to die, actually it tries tom compensate and makes the rpm's go up, down,up , down then stall.
I think Krambo had a setion about this.
I think Krambo had a setion about this.
By now, your new cammed truck should be idling pretty well (unless you have a cam like mine) so you can go into some of the finer points, one being the Idle Overspeed and Underspeed tables (HPT > Engine > Spark Control > Idle Adaptive Spark Control, Overspeed and Underspeed). (*Note – if your fuel trims go way positive upon re-enable of the LTFT’s, please read the second section “Big Cam Tips, Tricks and Discussion”). The PCM uses spark advance/retard and/or IAC/throttle blade movement to control idle. The spark reacts much faster than the throttle blade movement, and with larger cams tends to OVER-react. This tends to cause the idle to drop too low, or jump too high, which then causes the PCM to try to correct it back the other direction again using the Idle Overspeed and Underspeed spark correction tables. In your scan, look at the timing line in the chart view…does it bounce high and low or does it remain relatively stable (+/- 2*)? If it bounces around quite a bit, it may be a good idea to adjust these tables. Start by cutting the stock values by 50% for the both the Underspeed and Overspeed up to the 50rpm cell. Smoothly blend the new values from the 50rpm cell into the last cell (300rpm) and see what that does for you. It really helped my saw-toothed timing line and smoothed the roughness quite a bit, the stock tables are agressive.
Last edited by OnyxSilveradoSS; Mar 25, 2010 at 11:51 AM.
#17
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,514
Likes: 242
From: Suburban Chicago
my progress took a left turn. I'm fabbing a new inlet housing for my blower, and the job includes rerouting the bypass due to 03sierraslt's recommendation. instead of bypassing only the blower, it will go straight from the new inlet hat to my manifold's inlet elbow, bypassing the intercooler and piping. it will have the effect of having the iac as close to the engine as stock. this will shorten the time it takes the engine to react to iac adjustments, according to pat.
so the cause of my problem might be different than your's.
so the cause of my problem might be different than your's.
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