Codes I'm getting....any suggestions?
 

08 5.3 LY5 .. 6L80E swap 2010 donor and also nhad to swap to a 2010 ECM.. new wire harness with the swap (in case you ask) .. got ECM unlocked and was throwing cam and crank codes ... dealer performed crank relearn and cam but says the code im getting for cam actuator is because its 10 ecm and i dont have that particular sensor so i need custom tuning to get rid of it.. he says my cam sensor has been relearned but im still getting surge/loss of power at times and rough and low idle .. both symptoms are on and off (come and go) ... any ideas on that? Does 2010s have 2 sensors for cam? Why would it relearn my cam sensor but still throw sensor code? I dont think it relearned the cam sensor.

these are all my codes presenlty:
P0010 Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Press. Cir. High
P0134 Drivers side O2 Bank not responding
P0174 Lean

The tech thinks i have bad wire(s)/short or something along the new wire harness possibly because i put new MAP sensor and still have same code and swapped O2 sensors from driver to passenger and still drivers side dead. i've checked the plug for the O2 sensor and its getting power. i need to check each wire for the O2 sensor for continuity(think thats the right term) to see if the other 3 wires on the plug are good as well. Just dont know what to use equipment testing wise to perform the test. i have the plug pinouts to know which wire goes where on the ECM just dont know what tool to use or ask for to perform the test. Any help or suggestions are very much welcomed.

Did you tighten the bolt on the junction block where it attaches to the fuse block?

The nut on the stud directly in front the fuse block when looking under the hood at it? Yes there are 2 studs there and i had forgotten to put the nut back .. soon as i realized i put the nuts back and tightened. Is there another one i may have forgotten?

There's a terminal block on the end of each of the different truck harnesses, and all of these blocks attach to the bottom of the underhood fuse block. Each terminal block has a 7mm bolt that runs through it to securely attach it to the fuse block. I've had intermittent connection issues in harnesses where I have forgotten to tighten up that bolt. The terminal blocks will snap into the fuse block but if that bolt isn't tight it could cause problems. Starting with the easy solutions since you said you swapped engine harnesses.

I will dble chk that soon as get up tomorrow .. Im bout to head to work .. Permanent nights here .. Will take the fuse block back apart and dble chk connections as well ..well it will be a triple chk lol since i chkd n found i forgot the nuts a few weekends back when i started trouble shooting it .. If that doesnt resolve it im up for new ideas lol .. Will update then

Got it back apart today but theres no bolt that i can see so if you have a pic of what u are talking about i can check mine but from what i see there isnt a bolt... the junction block that the fuse block attaches on toop off was never removed ...only the top fuse block to get to the harness plugs for my swap.. but i see no bolt there anyway... I dble chkd my plugs to be sure they were in all the way and put top of block back on n snapped the locking handles tight and zip tied the harness for extra security... went drive and all was normal and runnin perfect for 15-20 mins .. stopped for a few mins to schedule oil change and tires tomorrow and when i started the light was back on on the shitty idle at first crank was back .. same codes came up when i got home n checked P0010 P0108 P0134 ... no lean code yet but im sure by the time i get to work after while it will be on too... annoying to say the least :bang::bang: .. not giving up but dont know what else to try .. MAP sensor getting power(was replaced) as well as O2s have power and work when swapped to passenger side as i had mentioned previously...

i guess my original question now still stands .. what do i use to check the wires to see if there is a short in the signal for those sensors wires going back to the ECM plug?

Still wondering .. What do i use to chk if signal is going thriugh each particular wire? Do i just connect to a battery source and check the wire on the other end with a voltmeter and compare if its showing same voltage as the source im using to test with? If not what else do i use to test for continuity?

Not all of the wires carry 12 volts, so that's not a good way to test them. I'd get a multimeter that measures resistance and put one probe on the connector end of the wire, the other on the junction block end of the wire. Your resistance should go to zero (or very close) when you complete the circuit that way.

Ok Thanks .. Gotta get a day where i can test everything