Pimpinpete

So I found that the L and F terminals were both turned on, turned F off And the charging is much more stable. I am still getting some voltage drop under acceleration, possibly a bad alternator? Going to look into getting a new one, we shall see.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Glad you found it, at least most of it. The dropping voltage could possibly be belt slip, or a crap alternator.

I have an OEM 105 amp alternator at the shop you can try, or buy. But I'm in Dallas.

Pimpinpete

Currently running a 130a because of power needs, alternator is under warranty so I will get it swapped this week and see what she do. Hopefully just a bad unit.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Sounds good. If I were you I would get a $50 junkyard 145 amp though.

One of the reasons I got away from the parts store alternators, besides them being absolute pieces of ****, was that I got tired of arguing with the dude behind the counter about the alternator being bad. Almost every single alternator I had would work okay when I first started the car, as heat build under the hood they went to ****. So they would test the alternator on their bench tester and it would work fine. Well no **** it's cooled back down. Some of the alternators just flat out died. Those I didn't have to argue about.

Sidenote: my problems and most others were centered around the F body alternators. Of the 50 pages in my alternator post most people had okay luck with the parts store truck alternators, but some had them go to crap too. So you are better off with the truck alternator, but being new isn't a guarantee that's it's worth much of a ****.

Pimpinpete

Kind of a late response here, but this issue ended up being a loose connection at the alternator. Only the L terminal needs to be turned on in HpTuners, in order to have correct charging. The "drop in charging" was due to the pin loosing contact with the harness. Solved issue by tightening up female side so that it would firmly grasp the male pin.

shakenfake

What a thread closure!