If this is an emergency only vehicle used for long distance road trips, why are you modifying it at all? I’d keep it entirely stock and not risk anything.

 

I can get on board for 91/flex switch. But the 87/91 switch isn't something I feel is worth it

the knock sensor wearing out is a real and tangible possibility

you're (op) camming and tuning an engine you plan to tow with- you absolutely need 91 or you're just wasting your time with mods and a "tune"

the MAF can handle ~25% extra airflow in the factory calibration: if you don't want to tune the truck just slap your parts and let the MAF handle the tune and put 87 in the tank and let the knocks handle the timing. I bet if you did that, it would make 15-20hp more than stock 🤣

or get a dyno tune on 91, optimize the timing table, and ask if the tuner will let you go for a street drive with your trailer so you can maximize timing off idle without knocking when loaded

thats my $3 of knowledge on it. If we haven't convinced you yet, we aren't going to and you're going to run 87 because $13/wk is too much but you just spent $2500 on parts and a tune

 

Don't listen to Art... the "Putin" gas hike tax is real!

The day you stop calculating fuel mileage, let your hair down, bounce off the rev limiter... you'll get pulled by the police

 

No, I said it's for bad weather (heavy rain/snow) and long distance towing and hauling. My original post stated exactly why I'm modifying it. It's the first iteration of the Gen III 5.3 LM7 which has the lowest rated output for HP and TQ. I would feel more comfortable with more power. It's just that simple.

 

I was asking honest and real questions because I need help and lack knowledge yet you're coming in hot and frankly being kind of being a dick which makes me not want to trust your advice. On top of that, you're either not fully reading or comprehending what all I've spelled out.

For one, the price is currently $13 more per TANK not per WEEK. I can easily burn two tanks in one day on a trip. For your info, the parts didn't cost $2500, they were $700 + $500 for the pending tune.

Also, never once did I say wasn't willing to go with a 91 octane tune or cop out the extra $13 per tank. I was merely asking for people with true knowledge to please help me out and explain exactly what is best and why considering my needs. I'm not an "askhole", I'll trust and take the advice as long as it's solid. Yours is not coming off well with your attitude.

 

I seriously considered the Truck Norris Cam, in fact that was my intention, but I talked to BTR twice via phone and they highly suggested I do either the Stage 2 or the Truck Torque Cam for my desires. I think they thought I would be disappointed in the idling characteristics if I went with Truck Norris. I went with the Torque Cam.

 

Towing power and acceptable fuel economy is going to be a tall order for that engine/cam combo, not to mention the truck itself. A cam profile that is friendly to some reversion and has a slightly later IVC can certainly help fuel economy, provided there's a little torque margin left at your cruise speed. The cam reduces vacuum, so you reduce pumping loss and pick up some efficiency. But it's only beneficial if you keep the load low enough to prevent a downshift. If you're towing....you may end up downshifting more with that cam, which will hurt economy. 87 could save some cash, but again, that's only something I'd opt for in something that isn't under long term heavy load. If you are towing and downshift right into peak torque and the knock limit range, it'll make some noise. 91 buys you a bit more peace of mind there. The dyno will tell you what you need though, so don't be afraid to start out with a low tank with some 87 in it. Swap to 91 after reviewing what the dyno results say, if necessary. If the 87 requires too little spark to avoid detonation, you need the better fuel.

 

You have to just read Arthurs post. dont take them personal, he is killing engines in his car and might be upset still.
He has good points.
You dont necessarily need EFI Live, you just need somebody that has EFI that will tune it. And its all just inside one tune, the timing retard is being activated with a toggle switch.
If i had a spare PCM id flash a tune on it and send it to you to try.
Is the truck torque cam the 202/202 .511/.511 111+1?

 

My bad, so much hype behind the TN I read that into it. :-)

 

I will agree with @Bgbldodge on this one. You may just want to think about buying a new truck.

Honestly I would recommend just swapping in a larger engine, which I can't believe that hasn't been recommended.