After reading through all this, I have one question... is this thread in English? :confused:
:D

Modified English 😉

psh... we all know a PD clutch would provide more usable action than that centrifugal bullcrap. instant engagement; no waiting on half your rpm to get anywhere

In the RC world, a plethora of clutch shoes and springs exist to tune engagement point, and some of them are honestly like 100rpm off idle, basically as 0 lag as you can get with a centri clutch

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...81716b50eb.jpg
I've had this revo for 15 yrs, haven't messed with it much in the last 10 yrs. I just bought my son a slash for Chrismas.

I'm just going by the factory specs lol. With my excellent Nitro tuning and running Byron's 25% Nitro it may be 2.75 hp @ 37,500 RPM at the crank :D

Attachment 153220



I'm running the BUKU 3 shoe adjustable clutch it's awesome but it's also $60

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...acbf2e33a.jpeg
Now to let the lock tite set on the pinion gear before I hammer on it.

Spur gears are disposable commodities in this hobby. I've switch to steel spurs and they just take out the clutch bell gear lol

The 3 shoe BUKU clutch. It has set screws drilled in the outer edge of the flywheel (not shown) for adjustment. Very nice piece compared to OEM Traxxas.

Attachment 153211

V6 Sierra VS T-Maxx grudge match... my money is on the smaller truck :D

Attachment 153212

This one was my fault. Set screw loosened up and pinion gear moved up and chewed up the spur gear. Upgraded to metal because I hate plastic.

I agree but the plastic gears were designed to take all the damage between the two gears. On the Traxxas nitro stuff when the aftermarket steel spur goes the drive gear goes with it. It gets expensive replacing both so I went back to plastic. I guess if you keep a sharp eye on the clearance it will live longer but it's hard to do while out bashing lol. I use a strip of printer paper between the two for clearance. Not sure how other manufactures adjust between the gears.