OEM Navigation upgrade for GMT800's
#32
added info to part number section
New (both types of head units require their respected "external Bose Amps")
LUX, Non-Nav Radio with 6 CD RPO Y91/Y92
Unknown Vehicle type-----------------15179349
Non-Lux, non-Nav Radio 6 CD RPO UQ7
2005 GMC Sierra CCSB ---------------10359577
2004 Chevy Tahoe --------------------15196055
Last edited by camcamaro1991; 02-25-2013 at 12:03 PM.
#33
I just thought of something...
Right now, as my truck sits. It has an aftermarket nav unit, with a "GMOS" connector type deal so my door dinger and everything still works.. My sub and everything is functioning correctly. Bose factory sub that is.
So I assume my factory non-lux amp is operating still, if I swapped the Lux Amp in, would it continue to work with the aftermarket nav unit as well, I can't comprehend why it wouldn't...
Right now, as my truck sits. It has an aftermarket nav unit, with a "GMOS" connector type deal so my door dinger and everything still works.. My sub and everything is functioning correctly. Bose factory sub that is.
So I assume my factory non-lux amp is operating still, if I swapped the Lux Amp in, would it continue to work with the aftermarket nav unit as well, I can't comprehend why it wouldn't...
#34
I just thought of something...
Right now, as my truck sits. It has an aftermarket nav unit, with a "GMOS" connector type deal so my door dinger and everything still works.. My sub and everything is functioning correctly. Bose factory sub that is.
So I assume my factory non-lux amp is operating still, if I swapped the Lux Amp in, would it continue to work with the aftermarket nav unit as well, I can't comprehend why it wouldn't...
Right now, as my truck sits. It has an aftermarket nav unit, with a "GMOS" connector type deal so my door dinger and everything still works.. My sub and everything is functioning correctly. Bose factory sub that is.
So I assume my factory non-lux amp is operating still, if I swapped the Lux Amp in, would it continue to work with the aftermarket nav unit as well, I can't comprehend why it wouldn't...
This was done after he converted from a original UQ7 Bose to a Y91 Bose amp then added aftermarket NAV head unit.
Hope that helps
Last edited by camcamaro1991; 03-01-2013 at 01:08 AM.
#35
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
I have a pretty basic question but I can't seem to find the answers anywhere. Does anyone know how much power these amps put out?
I have a 2005 Sierra Denali and I am pretty certain I have the 'LUX' sound system (the truck is in the body shop now otherwise I would verify), but I would like to upgrade my speakers. I want to know what I am playing with as far as peak and RMS power ratings before I dive into it head first. I have a single 10" Alpine type X sub and a 1000w amp that I am adding. I am keeping the factory sub in place, but I want the speakers to add a little more clarity and crispness up top to compete with the added bass. I can't stand it when the mids and highs are dominated by bass.
So again, how much power are we playing with here?? I'm curious how much the sub woofer is getting, but most importantly how much the speakers are getting. Can't find it anywhere!
I have a 2005 Sierra Denali and I am pretty certain I have the 'LUX' sound system (the truck is in the body shop now otherwise I would verify), but I would like to upgrade my speakers. I want to know what I am playing with as far as peak and RMS power ratings before I dive into it head first. I have a single 10" Alpine type X sub and a 1000w amp that I am adding. I am keeping the factory sub in place, but I want the speakers to add a little more clarity and crispness up top to compete with the added bass. I can't stand it when the mids and highs are dominated by bass.
So again, how much power are we playing with here?? I'm curious how much the sub woofer is getting, but most importantly how much the speakers are getting. Can't find it anywhere!
#36
I have a pretty basic question but I can't seem to find the answers anywhere. Does anyone know how much power these amps put out?
I have a 2005 Sierra Denali and I am pretty certain I have the 'LUX' sound system (the truck is in the body shop now otherwise I would verify), but I would like to upgrade my speakers. I want to know what I am playing with as far as peak and RMS power ratings before I dive into it head first. I have a single 10" Alpine type X sub and a 1000w amp that I am adding. I am keeping the factory sub in place, but I want the speakers to add a little more clarity and crispness up top to compete with the added bass. I can't stand it when the mids and highs are dominated by bass.
So again, how much power are we playing with here?? I'm curious how much the sub woofer is getting, but most importantly how much the speakers are getting. Can't find it anywhere!
I have a 2005 Sierra Denali and I am pretty certain I have the 'LUX' sound system (the truck is in the body shop now otherwise I would verify), but I would like to upgrade my speakers. I want to know what I am playing with as far as peak and RMS power ratings before I dive into it head first. I have a single 10" Alpine type X sub and a 1000w amp that I am adding. I am keeping the factory sub in place, but I want the speakers to add a little more clarity and crispness up top to compete with the added bass. I can't stand it when the mids and highs are dominated by bass.
So again, how much power are we playing with here?? I'm curious how much the sub woofer is getting, but most importantly how much the speakers are getting. Can't find it anywhere!
Bose Y91/Y92 = 250W, 9 speakers total (with subwoofer) <- Denali Yukon/Caddie
Bose Y91/Y92 = 250W, 7 speakers total (with subwoofer) <- Sierra Denali guessing here but since the difference between a SUV vs Truck was the coding for cubic feet/inch/etc... (whatever) that the Sierra Denali should rated at the same wattage.
I can't find anything on the UQ7 (educated guess based on size 120-200W), but I will look more later.
disclaimer from Bose:
Can I get a list of technical specifications?
No, because our custom-engineered, complete system solutions largely supersede conventional audio measurements. Even some basic building blocks have been redefined—including amplifiers, speakers and equalizers. But most importantly, our integrated systems deliver results significantly different from those of conventional systems with individual, unmatched components. With a Bose automotive sound system, the location and design of the speakers can be much more important factors in determining output than a wattage power rating. The bottom line? The best way to test a Bose system's sound quality is to use your ears, not a list of specifications.
#37
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
Wow thank you. Great Info.
250w total, I wonder what each component is getting. I would assume that the subwoofer is getting a larger portion of this, say maybe 100w, leaving about 25 per speaker in the other locations.
In some ways I understand where bose is coming from on this, but lets be realistic. There are plenty of cars (especially now) with factory audio equipment that is better than whats in my truck. Maybe I will just replace the frond door speakers with something that will compliment the highs a little more to work in conjunction with the new subwoofer.
250w total, I wonder what each component is getting. I would assume that the subwoofer is getting a larger portion of this, say maybe 100w, leaving about 25 per speaker in the other locations.
In some ways I understand where bose is coming from on this, but lets be realistic. There are plenty of cars (especially now) with factory audio equipment that is better than whats in my truck. Maybe I will just replace the frond door speakers with something that will compliment the highs a little more to work in conjunction with the new subwoofer.