shakenfake

Figured I should take the time to write a full How To guide on this considering I found zero information on truck forums and only one dude with a guide on LS1GTO but I feel as if it is missing a few things. I will also be including troubleshooting steps for this as well as it took me a while to get mine working.

Required Materials:
⦁ HPTuners
⦁ Male Serial to USB-A or USB-C
⦁ Soldering Iron
⦁ Wire Strippers
⦁ Extra 8 inches of wire (This is not really required but if you fudge up something and you already installed the gauge in the truck it makes it a tad bit easier to pull it off and redo it inside.)
⦁ Electrical Tape or heat shrink wrap
⦁ AFR Gauge. I used the AEM 30-0300 but any gauge that is supported by HPTuners and has a serial output and ground wire which I believe most of them do.

1. First and foremost you need to get the instructions for your specific gauge and look for the wires and their correlating responsibilities. You are looking for serial tx and ground. On the AEM 30-0300 those are the blue and black wires, serial tx and ground respectively.

AEM 30-0300 wiring diagram


2. Plug your USB into your laptop and make sure that the proper drivers download. You can double check this by going into device manager and finding the serial com port. Expand that and click on your USB cable and head into the properties. Should be an option to update drivers and it should come back with "Drivers already updated" or something along those lines.

Where to find the device in device manager

3. Get your serial to USB now and get your soldering iron warmed up and ready. You are now going to solder the serial tx to pin 2 and the ground to pin 5. This is somewhat tricky to get in my opinion but it does not have to be perfect.

Not great photography or soldering but it will do. I have it soldered literally onto the pins. You could cut the end off and figure out which wire goes where but serial cables are finnicky so you may have to return a few to get one that works


4. Now that you have it all soldered up you need to get your channel set up. I did not set up the layout on my own I borrowed it from someone else but I will link them down below if you feel a bit lazy.
a) Click the gear in the channels to create a new channel.
b) Expand the serial port option down in the second portion of the channel creator.
c) Find your brand and click on AFR or EQ. Personally I kind of like EQ but AFR is fine too.


Channel Creation
d) Right click on your newly created channel and go to transform.
e) Click "User Defined Parameters", find Oxygen Sensor and then find your model.


Channel Transformation

5. Now all you need to do is do a complete vehicle repoll. If you do not do this then you WILL NOT get the channel to appear and function. Follow the path shown in the photo to reach your vehicles folder and delete everything inside of it.


6. After that plug your HPTuners and USB into your laptop. Reconnect and repoll and start logging

That's all there is to it. Like I said I found 0 coverage of this anywhere on LS1Tech or PT which I figured would be the most popular places to find it. If there is a how-to on this then let me know. Shoutout joshcarl on LS1GTO for the start to me finding this. He had a small walk through on how to do this but I felt like it could be expanded a bit especially after the issues I had with the channel disappearing. Hopefully this can help someone out if they are having any issues. I was talking to tech support for both AEM and HPTuners trying to get this working so trying to save everyone the hassle.

vergesilverado

Very interested in doing this with innovative mxl since there is no data out there and I have mine going thru my egr circuit now but i cannot get the math right to save my life to get it to read correct, it'll read correct at idle 14.6-14.8 but soon as i go wot and drops down to 11.8 on my gauge its different than what my scanner is saying.

shakenfake

What is innovative mxl?

vergesilverado

my apologies MTX-L its another AFR gauge other than aem

shakenfake

I'm sure that it will work, I believe there is a spot for some sort of generic AEM gauge if there is not an MTX-L. I can look when I get home for it as well but this way is much easier than EGR.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

First, thank you!

EDITED, found the answer.

Hold on this is a long one.

Vehicle is the truck in my sig.

I have just started tuning using HP Tuners and have been able to make some very small changes, here and there. I say that to let you know that the port on my Laptop that I am using seems to be working.

Now, for the AEM wideband UEGO, I ordered a Male serial pigtail and matching female serial to USB adapter from Amazon.

I wired everything correctly per the AEM directions; blue to 2, black to five on the MALE side, the one with the pins. I JUST took the gauge out, ohmed them out looking at the AEM instructions and everything is wired correctly and audible via my multimeter.

Now, I have scanned and tuned with this setup, minus the wideband since Christmas 2022. I was really on the fence about if the WB was to connector to the computer via a different USB port, from HPT, or use a Y. After reading it sounds like everyone's consensus was a Y, so off to Amazon again. Installed the Y with both HPT and the WB connected and had no problem with communication to and from HPT and the trucks OBD. No issues. Except the channel disappears.

I followed your instructions to a T and did not have any issues getting it down, but it still disappears.

The only discrepancy that I can find is in step number 2.

My OS looks the same as yours, but my USB ports are their own line item and not incorporated into the COM line item.
That line item is called Universal Serial Bus Controllers with three subsets; Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft), USB Composite Device, USB Root Hub (USB 3.0).

Like I said, I am tuning through one of those, so I "assumed" the AEM WB would work too.

Using HPT MPV1-Pro. Windows 10 on a Gen 3 6.0.

And the WB is working great as hooked up to the truck. I've tried restarting the computer with everything attached; with the truck running and with just the key forward. I have also repolled several different ways.

I am trying to think of everything and be as thorough as possible, but I am a little burned out today.

Any help would be great appreciated.

shakenfake

When I saw your response last night you said you needed to know how to repoll. That was how I stopped it from disappearing every time.

Modern Barbarian

The way I have seen this done is to bring it in on a serial port that HP tuners can see. There is a video on youtube by Goat Rope Garage that covers this exact thing. I went and found the link for you. this should help immensely.

shakenfake

That video never worked for me. Something about it was different and I can't quite remember.

Maybe it was the same but I swear there was something off about the video.

Modern Barbarian

If you try it and it doesn't work, let me know. I am a member of his patreon trying to learn to do this tuning thing better, so he answers questions for me via email. I can ask about this one.