any audio gurus out there
07-06-2017, 10:23 AM
#12
It's amazing what a pair of subs do for sound quality. I was thinking about pulling the trigger for an amp and new door speakers. not anymore. I'm not super thrilled with the quality of the subs. with the seats up and the speaker exposed it sounds like someone thumping a spring style door stop at lower volume. I don't notice the sound with the seat bottoms flipped down and driving down the road. guess I shouldn't expect much from budget entry level woofers. the final setting that works best for me is with the subs turned way down in the head unit settings, but the amp gain about 75% up. I listen to all kinds of music and don't like jacking with tuning between each song. this gave me the best all round sound for rap/rock/country/blues. having some bass offsets the screaciness of the door speakers. should have done this years ago, but I couldn't justify since it just sat in my driveway 29 days of the month.
07-06-2017, 10:48 AM
#13
It is not the sub's fault. If these are your subs... 12" Comp Subwoofer - 4 Ohm SVC | KICKER® ... they require a minimum of 1.25 ft3 in a sealed enclosure. You are only giving the subs a third of the volume they need. This severely limits excursion and requires more power to the voice coil to move the cone. That's another reason I like 10's, there are numerous subs that will work well in small enclosures of 0.5 ft3 or less.
If the enclosure is not divided, you could unhook one of the subs and use it as a passive radiator or remove and block off that hole to allow the single sub ~1 ft3. It may actually be louder and deeper that way.
If the enclosure is not divided, you could unhook one of the subs and use it as a passive radiator or remove and block off that hole to allow the single sub ~1 ft3. It may actually be louder and deeper that way.
07-06-2017, 12:51 PM
#14
It is not the sub's fault. If these are your subs... 12" Comp Subwoofer - 4 Ohm SVC | KICKER® ... they require a minimum of 1.25 ft3 in a sealed enclosure. You are only giving the subs a third of the volume they need. This severely limits excursion and requires more power to the voice coil to move the cone. That's another reason I like 10's, there are numerous subs that will work well in small enclosures of 0.5 ft3 or less.
If the enclosure is not divided, you could unhook one of the subs and use it as a passive radiator or remove and block off that hole to allow the single sub ~1 ft3. It may actually be louder and deeper that way.
If the enclosure is not divided, you could unhook one of the subs and use it as a passive radiator or remove and block off that hole to allow the single sub ~1 ft3. It may actually be louder and deeper that way.
yes, that is the sub, and the box is divided. removing/blocking 1 speaker and removing the divider is an idea I never thought of. I noticed that the box didn't have the recommended air space but didn't have many other options. they do have a hard time hitting those really deep tones when cranked up, but I have them turned down so far it's not really an issue.
10-10-2017, 10:31 PM
#15
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Was thinking of finding a box to make the 12s work but don't think we have the option for behind the seat instead of under it. Was wondering what ports would donas well. I want my 2004 to slam when I want it to.
10-11-2017, 06:37 AM
#16
https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...SABEgJDz_D_BwE
Cant beat the price. I would probably do 10 inch subs if i did it over but these 12" subs seem to have broken in and sound better than they did in the beginning.
Cant beat the price. I would probably do 10 inch subs if i did it over but these 12" subs seem to have broken in and sound better than they did in the beginning.
01-10-2018, 04:11 AM
#18
I would guess your subs didn't get "broken in", but rather you adjusted your settings to compensate. I have used Hifi- before, but them selling those subs in that box is disgusting. There's no way those belong in there. That box is for shallow mount subs, and they put full size in there, I would guess because they were clearing inventory. THEY SHOULD KNOW BETTER THAN THAT.
That is a sealed box. Sealed boxes are better for quick hitting shallow accompanying style bass.
A ported box would have a hole in it roughly the size of a fist, require more air space in the chambers, and would be for louder harder hitting, wanting to feel as much bass as you can. (RAP).
Flat out, you're going to have to spend some money to fix that sub setup. You could look for subs that work better in that setup (shallow mount), and find a way to cover the holes (as long as your "cut-out diameter" (the size of the opening the subwoofer sits in) is not too big, or if its too small you would have to enlarge it if that's an option.
You could look for a "passive radiator". Think of it as similar to the face/cone of the subwoofer without the magnet, and doesn't get any power.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-496
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-502
It would mean taking one of your subwoofers out, and getting a smaller amp or getting a new sub that would work for .96 cu ft (should always try to match box and subs within 10%), then using your current amp. That box looks open between. Either way of these two ways would probably cost $100-$200. WHAT IT WOULD DO, is completely clear up your subwoofers. It would get rid of the ting that you were getting and let you run your subwoofers better. Bass comes from pushing the air, and the box you have is restricting the subwoofers ability to do it.
Parts-express has some good shallow mount Daytona audio subs that are decent price and hit well on low power, that may fit if you wanted to spend a couple hundred bucks.
Other than that you would probably be spending as much or more than what you already did just on the subs.
As for your door speakers, most people who blow speakers do it by turning them up too loud, on too little power. If you have 4 door speakers, you would be looking for a 4 channel amp. Crutchfield is a good website that has all the factory speaker locations and sizes listed for your vehicle. Makes shopping for equipment pretty easy if you don't already know what you need. An amplifier wont make a difference if you can hear well and listen to talk radio; but if you crank it up, then you PROBABLY need an amp.
The main websites I can think of
Crutchfield.
parts-express.
sonicelectronix.
woofersetc.
hifisoundconnection.
Most of these have how-tos for all sorts of parts.
There are many more, but that should be more than enough.
That is a sealed box. Sealed boxes are better for quick hitting shallow accompanying style bass.
A ported box would have a hole in it roughly the size of a fist, require more air space in the chambers, and would be for louder harder hitting, wanting to feel as much bass as you can. (RAP).
Flat out, you're going to have to spend some money to fix that sub setup. You could look for subs that work better in that setup (shallow mount), and find a way to cover the holes (as long as your "cut-out diameter" (the size of the opening the subwoofer sits in) is not too big, or if its too small you would have to enlarge it if that's an option.
You could look for a "passive radiator". Think of it as similar to the face/cone of the subwoofer without the magnet, and doesn't get any power.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-496
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-502
It would mean taking one of your subwoofers out, and getting a smaller amp or getting a new sub that would work for .96 cu ft (should always try to match box and subs within 10%), then using your current amp. That box looks open between. Either way of these two ways would probably cost $100-$200. WHAT IT WOULD DO, is completely clear up your subwoofers. It would get rid of the ting that you were getting and let you run your subwoofers better. Bass comes from pushing the air, and the box you have is restricting the subwoofers ability to do it.
Parts-express has some good shallow mount Daytona audio subs that are decent price and hit well on low power, that may fit if you wanted to spend a couple hundred bucks.
Other than that you would probably be spending as much or more than what you already did just on the subs.
As for your door speakers, most people who blow speakers do it by turning them up too loud, on too little power. If you have 4 door speakers, you would be looking for a 4 channel amp. Crutchfield is a good website that has all the factory speaker locations and sizes listed for your vehicle. Makes shopping for equipment pretty easy if you don't already know what you need. An amplifier wont make a difference if you can hear well and listen to talk radio; but if you crank it up, then you PROBABLY need an amp.
The main websites I can think of
Crutchfield.
parts-express.
sonicelectronix.
woofersetc.
hifisoundconnection.
Most of these have how-tos for all sorts of parts.
There are many more, but that should be more than enough.
01-10-2018, 10:29 AM
#19
thanks for the help. I can't explain it, but now that the subs have a some play time, they seem to sound much better. good enough for me anyways. I'm happy with the sound I have now. i'll keep all of this in mind for my next setup though.
01-11-2018, 09:55 AM
#20
The voice coils and surrounds loosen up over time requiring less power to move the cone the same distance. So yes, speakers do 'break in'. My Infinity towers in the house actually came with break in instructions. Basically it was just to loosen up the speakers before hammering on them.