96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

My solus is at V 14.4, however for some reason I can't view the current calibration, only the hardware number of the DSM module .

I just had to have a TSB performed on my 2008 Monte SS for keyfob range and I was able to view the Cal level on the keyless module to determine the tsb applied, but the DSM on my truck doesn't show.

With all this dealer level work I'm needing lately I'm thinking of getting this: http://www.obd2tool.com/goods-1621-GM+MDI+Scan+tool.html

And GM offers 3 day access to pass through programming as well as access to cal files for $55. That MDI comes with cracked software as well, so it says.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

I would be a little sceptical that it will work with reprograming on the GM site.

You can buy a mongoose cable though if you need to do a reflash. I know it's a little more money but at least there is support for it.

Drew Technologies : Introduction

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for that sir! Agreed, that Chinese knockoff one is sketchy. I work at a Ford dealership, and on our private technician message boards some of the guys are trying their IDS knockoff ones. If you try to update it or run it at ALL with anything other than the cracked software it comes with it bricks the unit. That Mongoose cable looks much more dependible.

Do you have to purchase the software for it seperate? Or is that something that you get to download once you pay for access to the TIS Web system and cal files?

Thanks for the help!

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

You have to Download. I am not sure how it works though as I have not had to do it.

Maybe call them and poke around.

I have a feeling the GM clones will do the same thing.
That how Ford caught Autel Coping there software and putting it in there tools. ford-sues-car-equipment-co-for-hacking-copying-database

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Interesting! I think you have to pay for the GM software from what I can tell by signing up and logging into TIS.....and the software appears to be a bit of a chunk to buy $$ wise.

Well I suppose I'll see what the dealer will charge to check and update that cal first. If it's close to that knockoff GM tool I'll give it a shot.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

FWIW they charged me like $60 at a local dealer to get something reflashed. Of course I have to bring it in after lunch when they aren't as busy.

They Know its only a 10 minute Job so they charge like .5 hour labor.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Ok, little update.

I got the DSM updated. My Calibration was at 15101514 so I was 3 revisions behind. However, the symptom is still present.

At this point I need to retrace my steps and start over on the resistance checks/pin fitment at ALL connectors. There HAS to be an intermittent electrical issue somewhere.

Here is the Pinpoint test, i'll note my findings as I progress through it:

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Little update.

Ordered both grids for one seat, going to try those and see what happens next. So far, it's looking promising. The new base grid pictured here, has a resistance reading that falls exactly between the specification in the pinpoint test.



I bet I was being mis-led by my reasoning that my comparison vehicle had a resistance reading outside of spec, but still worked. My grids are about 2 ohms above my test truck, which is probably just outside of the module's error detecting threshold.

We'll find out this weekend, I'm going to install both new grids in my problem child seat (passenger) and retest.

Pics of the grids coming out and disassembly will follow.

96gt4.6

iTrader: (5)

Finally got it fixed!

Turns out the problem was indeed due to the grid(s) being outside of the pinpoint test specification resistance wise. Due to the fact I had a comparison truck whose grids ohm'd between 5-6 ohms vs my 7 ohms on the passenger seat back, I had assumed the manual specification was 'loose'. Knowing my friend's truck has grids that are out of that specification and still worked, leads me to believe the threshold for the module faulting the grid is somewhere around 7 ohms.

Here's the resistance of the passenger side seat back grid I took out:



vs. the replacement element:



Here's the passenger seat base I took out:



vs. the replacement:



The back disassembly was THE most difficult. Getting the armrest clip off to release it is tough until you figure it out. I was able to find many seat disassembly videos on YouTube, as well as have access to AllData via ALLDATAdiy.com Leading Source of Factory Automotive Repair Information



The base was stupid easy. Also, the replacement Dorman pads I used do not come with any type of adhesive. I used 3M headliner adhesive as per the instructions provided by the YouTube video from The Seat Shop.

And the end result! No instant turning off of the heater:



And both base and back heat fine:



Here are the part numbers I used. They are available from Autozone Or O'Reilly's, however you can purchase them from Amazon for ~$40 less each than going to either of the parts stores. Both seats, both grids (I figured while the seat is out i'd better do all 4 grids) ran me almost $300.



Hopefully this writeup can help others in the some position, thanks to all that participated. This guy is going to enjoy finally having a hot butt!

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Is the control module linked to the BCM, or to the VIN number in any way? i know it can talk on the data bus...but does anyone know if it'll work in a truck it didn't originally come in?

I'd really like to add OEM heated seats to my RCSB...I've seen a few aftermarket seat heater setups that just weren't that great...every OEM GM heated seat I've sat in has been great though.