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Lq4 going into lifted half ton. HELP PLEASE!!

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Old 09-30-2016, 07:30 AM
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Default Lq4 going into lifted half ton. HELP PLEASE!!

I've read enough to make my head explode. I change my mind everyday. I just want to post this thread and get some opinions from the pros.

My truck is a 2006 1500 crew cab 4x4 with 35" tires. 4.56 gears Semi Float 14 bolt, Black bear tune. I have a full 2001 LQ4 in my garage. I have it torn apart and I am trying to find a path for the rebuild. This truck is my daily driver.

I don't want anything crazy. I just don't want my truck feeling like a turd. The black bear tune helped the 5.3 like crazy!, but I know the 6.0 is going to be the key to the puzzle. Im also working on the 4L80E.

HELP- I need yalls suggestions on the build starting with the rotating assembly. I wan't to do this cheap (I know it wont be cheap ,but I dont think I need forged rods and pistons and what not, and will never be adding boost or anything like that. I also don't want it sounding like a drag car. So far my plan was to keep it 4.00 bore and buy the new style rods with some flat top pistons. I was also going to buy the L92 heads, but I have read mixed things with it being a daily driver heavy truck.


Give me some help please!

Last edited by willhorne22; 09-30-2016 at 07:47 AM.
Old 09-30-2016, 10:42 AM
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If the engine was fine before you took it apart then just slap some new bearings and rings in there with a cleanup on the cylinders and use the stock rods, crank, and pistons since you never plan to use boost or nitrous that will be fine. New oem lifters (LS7), and a cam in the 210-220 range with hardened pushrods and a nice beehive spring. You can keep the 317 heads that were on it just have them milled to bring the compression up a bit and youll be good to go.
Old 09-30-2016, 10:50 AM
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If the plan is to never go crazy, you really don't have to go out and buy more parts. The stock rods and piston would work just fine. They will support well into the 500hp range and likely you won't even come close to that without some serious mods like a supercharger or turbo.

The factory AL 317's do flow great for what they are, you could shave them down to help increase your compression ratio and get a bump in power, could be cheaper than buying new cylinder heads. Aren't L92 square port heads too, so you'd need to buy a different intake manifold.


Do you want a mild cam is this thing or leave it stock? The 6.0 will be a big upgrade over the 5.3 in torque so I don't know how far you want to take it.

Add a set of headers and get a custom tune you'd be set in my eyes.
Old 09-30-2016, 11:36 AM
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If you decide to go l92 heads, make sure you get a cam setup for them, otherwise it will be a dog down low. Stock bottom end will be fine, save the money youd spend on the rods and put it elsewhere.. My 6.0 made 348 at the rear wheels with the l92 heads and wrong cam through a f'd up torque converter and trans with an assload of wheel hop... Can only imagine what its doing now...
Old 09-30-2016, 02:26 PM
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Thank you, About time I read some normal suggestions lol. Well right after I posted this thread, I pulled the trigger on an ebay purchase. I bought a set GM Stock OE 6.0L Piston/Rod combo with Standard 4.0 bore out of LY6 motor. Will fit any LS2. Less than 200 miles. Excellent condition. Ready to install. They Look PERFECT.

This motor was suppose to have had low oil pressure. It didn't have any worn out bearings or anything. I'm going to go ahead and rebuild it all though so I can always have peace of mind. I got this motor for free as a gift, so i can spend a little lol.





This will work right? Just need to get the block cleaned up and the crank polished and balanced? From what yall just said I will stick with my 317 heads, what is average cost on getting them milled down and rebuild?
Old 09-30-2016, 02:37 PM
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Hey Atomic, I don't know if ever told you, but thanks for the coil over brackets and advice. They work great. The bearings I ordered worked just fine with the aluminium spacers I bought.






Originally Posted by Atomic
If the engine was fine before you took it apart then just slap some new bearings and rings in there with a cleanup on the cylinders and use the stock rods, crank, and pistons since you never plan to use boost or nitrous that will be fine. New oem lifters (LS7), and a cam in the 210-220 range with hardened pushrods and a nice beehive spring. You can keep the 317 heads that were on it just have them milled to bring the compression up a bit and youll be good to go.

Old 09-30-2016, 04:06 PM
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I think I'm going to keep the factory cam. You can never find more than 2 people agreeing on 1 cam. That just kind of scares me away from them. I know I will be plenty happy without one so I don't want to chance wasting $400 and being upset with the results. I like the sound of shaving the 317 heads to increase compression. I do plan on doing long tube headers after the transmission swap.



Originally Posted by FFDP
If the plan is to never go crazy, you really don't have to go out and buy more parts. The stock rods and piston would work just fine. They will support well into the 500hp range and likely you won't even come close to that without some serious mods like a supercharger or turbo.

The factory AL 317's do flow great for what they are, you could shave them down to help increase your compression ratio and get a bump in power, could be cheaper than buying new cylinder heads. Aren't L92 square port heads too, so you'd need to buy a different intake manifold.


Do you want a mild cam is this thing or leave it stock? The 6.0 will be a big upgrade over the 5.3 in torque so I don't know how far you want to take it.

Add a set of headers and get a custom tune you'd be set in my eyes.
Old 09-30-2016, 04:28 PM
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Somehow all of my engine swaps end upnin this state...


This was my 99.... Which went from an engine swap to every mod i could do... Lol



This was the yukon....
Old 09-30-2016, 08:43 PM
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Will- that mud slinging big tire monster needs a custom cam while your at it. There are several here that can help spec one or point you in the right direction.
Old 09-30-2016, 09:10 PM
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Definitely going to need a cam and higher stall converter while youre at... If youre building an 80 to swap in it may be in your best interest to do it all at once...depending on your time constraints and other obligations....which was point i was trying to make in my previous post..


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