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Painting the black plastic stuff...

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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:14 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 06murder
04 buroban use an ruber hammer with duck type n beat on but becarful u might break the tibs so when u do it work in the middle n work out wards left to right or vis vera
Thank you
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 11:03 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 06murder
use th prompter first then put three good wet coats wait bout 5-10 min flash time the sand with 320 repeat til texture gone then water sand it with a 600 grit them hammer the clear if ur doing clear...put ont good wet slick coat of clear n sand it with a 1500 n reclear it .....make sure ur fan it about 8-10'' away from the part for sexy slick finish
Prompter must be adh. promoter.

I agree w/. this post Billy, sounds like how I'd do it for the most part. You want a little surface scuff on substrate that a proper grit provides but no so fine like someone previously said (not 1500 IMO) for paint to adhere.
Plastic parts are kinda funny, unlike metal cause they get this static thing goin where the fibers stand on end; if you've done it before, u know what I mean. Therefore I prefer to wetsand em. A tack coat 1st before u douse heavier coats. Multiple thin coats are better than heavy thick coats, esp. w/. say a metallic base. Clear is a different animal as it flows out so to speak. I can do easier than I can explain.

Do 2 things above all.

1)Prep - that is the key to everything in life. Here too.
2)Use an adhesion promoter on this. Otherwise, I wouldn't do the job.

Terry, duct tape & a hammer, huh?!?

Why not just press those lil pins back in by applyin hand pressure?
When dry.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by DV2000NJ
I'm planning on doing this same thing to my grille, door handles, and mirror caps this summer.

My buddy who's probably going to help out (and shoot a bit himself) when I shoot your truck works at a body shop, maybe the 3 of us can have a sanding party.

I think you might have met him at the ETown swap meet last spring?
I met one of your friends at the swap meet last spring, same guy?

Sanding party sounds...fun? Although, sanding with others isn't as bad as sanding alone...beer helps me sand better

Originally Posted by 06murder
use th prompter first then put three good wet coast wait bout 5-10 min flash time the sand with 320 repeat til texture gone then water sand it with a 600 grit them hammer the clear if ur doing clear...put ont good wet slick coat of clear n sand it with a 1500 n reclear it .....make sure ur fan it about 8-10'' away from the part for sexy slick finish
Originally Posted by fastnblu
I agree w/. this post Billy, sounds like how I'd do it for the most part. You want a little surface scuff on substrate that a proper grit provides but no so fine like someone previously said (not 1500 IMO) for paint to adhere.
Plastic parts are kinda funny, unlike metal cause they get this static thing goin where the fibers stand on end; if you've done it before, u know what I mean. Therefore I prefer to wetsand em. A tack coat 1st before u douse heavier coats. Multiple thin coats are better than heavy thick coats, esp. w/. say a metallic base. Clear is a different animal as it flows out so to speak. I can do easier than I can explain.
Sounds good guys...should I use clear?

I know that plastic is tricky, and no, I've never done it before. I've seen enough refinished bumpers with the paint chipping off and looking like that I know that I don't want mine to look like that.

I agree 1000% that PREP IS THE KEY! I learned that a long time ago when my step father worked a second job at a body shop.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
I met one of your friends at the swap meet last spring, same guy?

Sanding party sounds...fun? Although, sanding with others isn't as bad as sanding alone...beer helps me sand better





Sounds good guys...should I use clear?

I know that plastic is tricky, and no, I've never done it before. I've seen enough refinished bumpers with the paint chipping off and looking like that I know that I don't want mine to look like that.

I agree 1000% that PREP IS THE KEY! I learned that a long time ago when my step father worked a second job at a body shop.
Bill...When I painted both the Bowite & Rear pads.....the last step I did was 2 Coats of Duplicolor's Clear Coat.....IMO it will help with Elements...(Weather).....and hopefully will help with the paint not chipping off....but if the paint does chip off, I would think that is due to Poor Prep work before painting??.......on my rear pads, only time will tell if the paint does chip off??

Last edited by MADS99; Apr 11, 2026 at 06:50 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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Yes use clear for sure.. Only issues i see with plastic chipping is the areas that flex alot, when you do not use a paint with the flex additive in there... Other wise PREP PREP PREP.. You can manipulate the paint in the end, if the finish is shitty, but whats under it you can not.. NOW QUIT ALL THE TYPING AND GET TO IT..
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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prep, psssh who does prep. just give a can of spray paint to rosie and see what she comes up with..
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by skolman91
prep, psssh who does prep. just give a can of spray paint to rosie and see what she comes up with..
Oh man, I can only imagine what everything within her reach would look like lol!
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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I'm gong to be re-painting my lower valance an grille on the next few weeks. The paint was holding up fine til I hit a piece of tire flying off a big rig... I'll post pics when I do it
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #19  
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i paint cars n plastic **** everyday....if u want it to pop then use 1000-1500 then reclear.. trust me it will pop if done right..fyi it u want make it go a bit faster you can 240 theres not much differce to 320...
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #20  
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Here is my contribution. Everything I have matched on my truck I did myself and I am NOT a pro by any means. lol

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=460462
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