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cast aluminum detail question

Old 02-12-2019, 11:22 AM
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Default cast aluminum detail question

I have an older model cast TVS1900 that spent it's life on salty roads. It's what's on the inside that counts right? I would like to clean and paint the blower so the outside matches the inside, but the case has a ton of tight corners/crevices to clean. What do you think the easiest/best method to clean it would be. I'd rather not spend hours with a dremel tool kicking dust into my face. I thought about getting a parts washer and filling it with kerosene/diesel. I also thought about picking up a sand blasting cabinet. I've always wanted both of these tools anyways and now I have somewhere to keep them without them being in the way. I have a powder coat company that offered to dunk the case in a chemical bath that's made to strip metals of paint/corrosion/gunk, but I'm afraid what it may do to the inside machining of the case. what angle of attack would you take? It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough to get some primer/paint to stick.




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Old 02-12-2019, 11:50 AM
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I would give it a good bath and polish it it to a shine I think it will be worth it in the end.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:05 PM
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my truck doesn't live in a clean environment either. it's the daily tow turd/deer lease truck. polishing isn't an option LOL. I'm looking for minimal effort with max results for a non show/go vehicle. I'd like to paint it to prevent it from looking like this again in the future.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:14 PM
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Just send it!

Last edited by Jeff71; 02-14-2019 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Poor suggestion
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:05 PM
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A diluted muratic acid solution would quickly strip the corrosion and organic residue and leave a dull clean raw aluminum finish. However, the fumes will cause any carbon steel to flash rust. I would worry about the fumes getting to the bearings in the case and external hardware. If you were to disassemble the case for new bearings I would go that route or just give it to your power coat guy for a chemical bath and coating. I think any thing that is caustic and easy (spray on/wash off) is going to have adverse effects to other parts of the assembly.
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:22 PM
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Pretty sure the EPA has cracked down on engine builders using caustic soda baths to clean engine blocks, but I'm sure you could call around and find somewhere who still has the equipment to dip that case. Might actually have to drive around, cause they might not admit to maintaining the equipment over the phone. But yeah as mentioned above, I'd totally strip it down before going that option.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:20 AM
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I tooled around with a dremel for 5 minutes last night. That wont be happening! I've never opened a blower. How big of a task is it? any special tools required?
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:43 AM
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They aren’t bad. But I would change the orings if you open it up.
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Old 02-13-2019, 02:57 PM
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Be careful of chemical "brighteners" on it as a lot of them will turn it a dull gray and still look bad. What I would do is completely disassemble it and either find a blaster or pickup a HF cabinet and blast it with a soft meada like crushed walnut shells. Something not real abrasive, just enough to remove the coration and give it a nice matte finish. Mask off the areas you don't want to get the media in or blasted. You can play with the pressure starting low and working your way up till you get the finish you're looking for.
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:12 PM
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Honestly, for what you want, just hit it with a small SS or brass wire brush. Blow off with an air hose. Wipe it the best you can with some mineral spirits. Spray bomb it.

I painted accessory brackets that looked just like that following the same steps and they have held up just fine.
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