auto..painters inside please!!
 

I just bought a new hood with some money I got for some hail damage I had, it is a steel cowl hood but came with an attachable scoop that is fiberglass. they are both primered black, what do I need to paint them??

I have done the actual spraying before and know how to do that, but I don't know what kind of paint, clear coat I need.

I also wanted to paint the front plastic valance but I was told I would need some "rubberized" paint so it wouldn't crack.

My truck is an 03 with the dark grey color.

If anyone knows the poaint code for that dark grey that would be helpful also. It doesn't say on the sticker on my door frame.

thanks a lot

-Joshua

look in your glove box and you should find it itll be a number then with a u for example 11u or 41u

69D??? does that sound like a good number??

there are a ton of 3 digit numbers on the sticker in the glove box.

Look in glovebox. Read the very last code. What is it? For me, it's 91U, which refers to my particular color, Arrival Blue. Also, after that it should say BC/CC with some stuff next to it like U815K. If there's 2 #'s, it's due to the fact u or someone has a 2-tone. BC/CC = basecoat/ clearcoat. Does that help?
69D, I have that as well, that is a code for something else, I think it's the interior trim color, Dark Charcoal Cloth. If u have that same interior, let me know, for my own interest.;) Any questions, shoot me a PM or way to contact you. :D

yep thanks

I do have the dark charcoal interior, 7MT is the last code.

Maybe this info I am about to give you will help, ive been painting for about 9 years since I was 13.

This is a wild guess at your paint code it might be 391E. I know that is a dark grey metallic sprayed on the trucks, it is in your glove box on the very bottom line on one of the tags, not with the RPO codes. As far as the material you need to paint it here ya go


ALL PART NUMBERS ARE PPG PRODUCTS!

-First sand everything down with 320 gritt sand paper
-Right before you paint it, you need to wipe it down with wax a grease remover DX440
-Then Tack it off

Mixing the sealer
-Sealer (DP90LF) and Sealer Hardener (DP402LF) and Medium Reducer (DRS1470) Mix those three things in a 2 to 1 to 1/2 ration. 2 of sealer 1 of hardener and 1/2 of reducer. I always spray 1 good coat of sealer but you can do 2 if wanted.

Mix your base 1 to 1 with reducer (DRS1470)
-Spray 2-3 coats of it. Make sure your last coat is high pressure so all the metallics lay down right

Clear - DC3000 clear is the best clear out there!
Mixing ration is 4 to 1 being mixed with DCH3098(clear hardener) and thats all no reducer

So thats 4 parts (DC3000) to 1 part (DCH3098)

I always do 2 wet coats of clear leaving about 10 minuted flash(dry time) between coats. But you can do 3 if you like.

I think that about covers it. You did ask about ruberized paint? No such thing in the world. What you do for the parts that need to be flexible is follow all the steps above all the way to the clear. When you mix your clear you have to add DX814 it is a PPG Flex Additive which makes the clear flexible and wont crack over time.

Your Mixing ration with the clear and flex additive are...
4 to 1 to 1

4 Parts (DC3000) 1 Part (DCH3098) 1 part (DX814)

Hope I helped you out with what you needed. Anything elses feel free to ask.


Daniel

That is something else. Shoot me a PM w/ a number to contact you at, I'll call u when I see your on the site or I get some info from u. :D

It's on glovebox door w/ all that shit it what I meant.:engarde:
Somebody sprayin in 95* also has to use, to a minor extent, different product(s) vs 65*. He's calling rubberized, I'd say he meant flex agent. I'm not privy to the PPG info anymore, but way to go Daniel. You da man.:cheers:

Haha WHOO GO ME! Yeah im pretty bias towards PPG. Thats all that I have ever sprayed.