And............idle vids. Still needs tuned, but I loaded up a quickie so it starts & runs. They're Photobucket vids, just click on the pics. I'll get them to Youtube later, and embed the vids, just not tonight.

 

muts be going procharger with that size converter? i'm surprised that you'll didn't put some forged pistons in it while it was apart.

 

That exhaust should handle it. Looks like great work, Roger. I might have been inclined to go with some forged pistons along with some ARP stuff but no biggie. Kudos, that's a lot of work for one weekend. Did you find that you needed spacers for the torque converter bolts?

 

Looking good guys! What form of boost is in the works? Procharger? Maggie TVS?

 

Dam looks and sounds good roger any spec's on the cam and the fi chose?

 

Cam specs? Why did you open the rings up? Seems with a good tune the rods give up before the piston does.

 

I did need to use spacers when bolting up the torque converter because there was just a little to much space between the pads and flex plate. Cam was a VHP 228/236 .551/.551 115LSA +2. And my FI choice will be a Maggie tvs 2300 series.

 

When is boost getting thrown on?

 

thats gonna be running really nice, you wanna come down and help me on my motor work wish I could do it in a weekend

 

I'm gonna be like my long-lost buddy Tom (Fastnblue) here, and be a multi-quote maniac.

Most likely gonna be a larger PD blower, like a TVS2300 jackshaft, or something bigger. Hell, GM's putting 4.0 liter blowers on the 5.3 in their COPO program.... But we're looking for a hard launch here, so we went a little aggressive with the converter. It can be re-stalled if it doesn't work out. Forged pistons are expensive, and these things only have 10K miles on them. Plenty of guys going fast on the stock pistons lately.

Haha, notice how I didn't take any close-ups of the exhaust welds? If these pistons die, I'm sure forged will go back in. But I think it'll be okay. And Chris included 2 different sizes of spacers with the 'verter. After measuring everything, the thinner spacers were chosen and installed.

Not 100% in concrete yet, but see above.

When I started digging around asking about ring gap, and talking to different ring manufacturers, I learned a few things. LOTS of guys who are pushing the limits of stock rotating assemblies/pistons are running a wider ring gap with FI or nitrous. It becomes a math equation that "bore factor" decides ring gap based on bore diameter. I'm not reinventing the wheel here, just following what successful other guys have been doing. BTW, I measured the ring gap as they came out, and they were only .010" top ring, and .020" second ring. Too tight for boost or nitrous, according to the experts.
Lots of cam spec questions here. Somehow I expected that. Here's a pic of the cam card.


Edited, no +2... Valve lift with the YT 1.8 should be .590"

That's what I wanna know too!!!

It's gonna be a runner, for sure. I've never been to Kansas. Buy me a ticket! Haha!