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Petro's Project ERL Superdeck 427 w/ Whipple 2.9L

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Old 12-08-2015, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Can I come help with that? I have been thinking about one of their kits for mine actually.
Help with the cardboard mockup or install of the kit? You're welcome to swing by if you'd like. The frame is at Fusion Works getting surgery done to it still. If the mock up looks good I'll be buying it in March and test fitting the actual kit on the engine in the frame around that time. Then removing it all to send the frame off for powdercoat. But everything will be test fit before any final type things are done like the frame powdercoat, exhaust polishing, engine/tranny paint, etc.
Old 12-08-2015, 09:21 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Either one really, just looks like a cool setup and I havent seen many local guys doing something like this.
Old 12-08-2015, 09:24 PM
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Yeah you're welcome to swing by anytime man. I'm usually detailing a vehicle one day of the weekend and free anytime during the week. Your truck hauls ***! Which I hope mine does when it's finished up.
Old 12-15-2015, 08:23 AM
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June 30th:

On another note does anyone know of any companies that can make custom steering wheel airbag covers? I'm wanting to get the Sonoma script embossed into the cover without the GMC or Chevy logo on it:

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October 27th:

On a episode of Bitchin Rides they recovered a steering wheel airbag with leather and had successful deployment of the bag. So maybe I'll give Kindig It Designs a call.

I also have the idea of transplanting the interior harness out of a Bravada or Envoy edition along with the BCM so that I can use the Computer Climate Control Unit among other things like integrating some type of Electronic Traction Control. Just brainstorming ideas and throwing it out there.


Today:

Another small update: I spoke with Justin at JS Custom Interiors and he mentioned laser etching the leather on the steering wheel airbag cover instead of debossing it. So I'll have it redone in matching OEM grain leather and then the Sonoma GT script (minus the letters GT) etched into it. Hopefully it adds a small touch that looks OEM but is custom. That's the look I want for the whole truck actually.
Old 12-17-2015, 12:07 PM
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I currently have the stock LS3 hollow stem intake (~86-89g) and exhaust valves on my heads. When is it recommended to upgrade using boost? Is there a HP or Boost level that it becomes a no brainer? Manley has 108g and 118g severe duty intake valves for the LS3 heads. The exhaust valves are both ~96g between Manley inconel HD and severe duty. So any recommendations on the topic?
Old 12-17-2015, 12:28 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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I ran stainless exhaust valves on my turbo setup at 1000hp and it was fine. When I needed a valve job I replaced those with stock LY6 exhaust valves that are incolnel and it has been fine since. Hard to really tell when you need to upgrade valves. I would think turbo stuff would be much harder on exhaust than supercharged stuff.
Old 12-18-2015, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
I ran stainless exhaust valves on my turbo setup at 1000hp and it was fine. When I needed a valve job I replaced those with stock LY6 exhaust valves that are incolnel and it has been fine since. Hard to really tell when you need to upgrade valves. I would think turbo stuff would be much harder on exhaust than supercharged stuff.
I'm thinking I can use the GM Hollow stem ones I currently have in the L92 heads in the Silverado when I do a cam swap in it. That way it'll have a lighter valvetrain and the S10 build will get some piece of mind with the severe duty valves going up 16psi of boost.


The cardboard mock up looked very promising on Tuesday when I visited Fusion Works. This evening I got these from Mr. Wegner for actual fitment. If anyone is interested in using extremely nice front drive accessories for just about any application check out Wegner Motorsports. Customer service is outstanding and his willingness to answer questions makes me want to purchase the kit even if it doesn't fit.

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Old 12-21-2015, 10:34 AM
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Some old pics of the DD. I just put a Magnaflow 16746 cat back on it along with a Energy Suspension 1036 poly trans mount. I'm happy with the mods. The truck accelerates slightly quicker and the shifts are bit more crisp with the poly mount. Plan on doing a cam swap in the future.

2008 Silverado LTZ Vortec Max Edition





Old 12-21-2015, 02:40 PM
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Anyone with a Maggie or Whipple on here use the on/off boost switch? I believe it's a active boost bypass solenoid/valve. From my understanding you can flip a switch and not make any boost and just run N/A. Would be cool to run someone N/A then turn boost "on" and blow their doors off second go round. Also maybe running N/A back and forth to car shows would put a little less stress on the engine?

Speaking with Mr. Wegner and Vengeance Racing it sounds like 16+lbs of boost is what will be needed to make some serious power. They have similar builds that made 950 on 93 pump gas. They also have some others that made similar on race gas. So I guess there are ton of variables that make each setup perform differently. At least Boostane is fairly cheap and supposedly boosts octane levels up a fair amount.

Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade and Accel D585 style coil packs. I'm going to use Granatelli solid steel core plug wires as well. Hopefully it all compliments one another for gains. I have some stock stuff that I will be able to put on for comparison sake when I put it on the dyno. (Stock plug wires, stock coil packs, stock throttle body)

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Old 12-21-2015, 02:46 PM
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The only way I see that working is to control the bypass valve in the back of the unit (front on the jackshaft units) manually. The way it is set up is there is a vacuum reference hose to the actuator that controls a valve that goes from the inlet to below the rotors. At light throttle there is vacuum in the inlet before the rotors and that is stronger than the actuator spring holding the valve open. When you give it more throttle, vacuum in the intake drops and the actuator spring closes the valve so all the air is forced through the rotors.

You don't want it closed all the time because it will stress the supercharger more than needed and also heat the air unnecessarily. I don't know why you would want to force it off either since you will still by driving the blower rotors and compressing some air (the bypass valve is relatively small) it will be horrible inefficient and be probably slower than it would be NA.


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