When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
oh, i wasn't saying a 1900 was completely useless. shoot, i know a guy who put a little TVS2300 on his built 427 C5 and used 1 3/4" headers... granted, he only made 571hp with 633tq (meaning the top end fell off like Stephanie Adams from a 25th floor window), but he still had a driveable car.
Brakes are on and look proper good if I do say so myself. Need to lay out mount and connect the rear axle hardlines and search for the SS flex lines to connect them up so they can be bled. Also need to sort out the parking brakes and hopefully the cables I have will work as they should. I bought what I believe are early NBS RCSB disk brake lines since mine had drums.
What diff juice should I use with the locker? Cheap ole 75-90 with no additive? I plan to run the first round of fluid for less then 1k and change to a synthetic just to help clean out some of the rust and gunk that might be left in it.
Thank you! Correct the locker is 100% mechanical so no clutches therefore cheap ole Walmart Supertech 75-90 should be just fine. Maybe get some Mobile 1 full synthetic after break in.
i just put some RedLine 75w-90 GL-5 in the H3 and dodge diffs. so far, so good. stuff ain't cheap, but i've heard it's worth it.
also just swapped both trucks out with the RedLine MT90 GL-4 transmission fluid, too. almost eliminated the G56 gear roll-over noise with the Valair dual & SMF.
I run the Mobil 1 75/90 LS. I buy it by the case because it is a lot cheaper per bottle that way. I've been really happy with the performance of the oil. Both the Ranger and E-350 had rear diff chatter when I got them- all fresh and smooth now
The Ranger, E-350 (front and rear), C5 and MR2 all have clutch type LSDs in them, so I just put it in the front and rear of the Tahoe
I have a lot of differentials in my life 😂😂 must be why I am so dumb