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Please don't spend money on "fast track" courses. Just go out and shoot, learn how to really use manual mode, and just keep experimenting.
I'll tell you what, that 35mm will be much better in low light. I have a D3100 and I love the 35mm 1.8G.
For the "yellow" picture, it's that color because when using anything but manual mode, your white balance it set to auto, or some other preset. Measure the white balance before your next night time shoot and it'll be much better. You do that by selecting custom white balance and then taking a picture of a completely white or grey surface. That gives the camera something to base the white balance on.
Overall, those are good pictures. Just learn about full manual mode and setting a custom white balance. Then next night time shoot, you'll end up with even better pictures!
A little late to see this thread but long exposures at night aren't needed unless you want to get a certain look with it such as tail lights streaming across your shot. The original shots you posted could have been shot at a larger aperture (small f number) to speed up the shots and not have to crank up your ISO so much. Your particular vantage point would have the lens in infinity mode so you everything would have been in focus with the large aperture. Typically the longer the shutter the more chance it has of not turning out as sharp even with a tripod which will also make it appear less clear.
As for overall clarity, this is primarily where your lens comes in and partly camera. Better lenses have better glass and that relates to better pictures (think color, contrast, etc). The kit lenses you have aren't bad for what they are but will never have as much clarity as a lens with ED glass; but, those aren't cheap. The afore mentioned 35mm or 50mm f1.8 lenses are definitely a step up from what you have and reasonable at around $200 new. Most people seem to think buying the latest high tech cameras such as Nikon's D4s but if you don't have good lenses it doesn't really matter.
Taking pictures is by far the best way to learn! Just get out and shoot! Eventually you'll start to see patterns based on your settings and what it reveals on the computer.
I realize this thread is from 2012 but maybe someone will get some use out of my explanation.
Making good images is always a trade-off between ISO, shutter speed and aperture. The aperture is the tiny window that allows light to expose the film (or digital sensor) and controls your DOF (depth of field that determines how much of the DOF is in focus in an image). A wide open aperture (large physical size and smaller number like f/2.8) allows light to enter very quickly even at higher shutter speeds. A closed down aperture (tiny physical opening size and larger number like f/22.) allows more depth of field to be in focus but because of the tinier opening, takes much longer exposure to let enough light in to properly expose the film/sensor.
The shutter is the curtain that covers that window and how fast it opens and closes is determined by shutter speed. The ISO determines film speed like 100 for bright sunny days or 1600 (and even higher in newer digital cameras up to 6400 and higher) is for low light or fast motion shots.
The only way to control everything is to shoot full Manual Mode. If you shoot low light at a small aperture opening like f/16. you're making your job even harder. You should open your aperture up wide open, like f/2.8 or as wide open as the lens is capable of. The trade-off here is loss of DOF. You can also choose a higher ISO that will allow you to bump your aperture size down to regain more DOF (depth of field). Proper adjustment of aperture and ISO will help you obtain a shutter speed that is fast enough to eliminate motion blur (camera movement).
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Stills that I shot on a movie set. This was taken about 9:00 PM at night with no flash. The only light provided for the scene was firelight and a flood from a firetruck from the town where this was shot. I can't recall my settings but I was shooting a Canon 70-200L at f/2.8 (wide open for maximum light gathering capabilities).
05-29-2014, 07:56 PM
