nitrous kit advice
#1
Im looking for a complete kit to spray a 100 shot.
Anyone have any recommendations as far as something complete and reliable for our trucks?
Would you go with a wet or dry kit?
If you had to do it over what would you go with?
Anyone have any recommendations as far as something complete and reliable for our trucks?
Would you go with a wet or dry kit?
If you had to do it over what would you go with?
#2
def go with a wet kit. make sure you lower the timing and switch to ngk tr 6 plugs. as far as kits go, i won't comment on which is better than the rest cause my kit is a piece together, but i will recommend to look for the kit that comes with the most safety stuff. if the kits don't come with the safety stuff, plan on buying it. such as fuel pressure safety switch if you want one, a window switch, on off switches, micro switch, etc.
#4
There are good arguments for which is better wet or dry. I have both and the wet hits a little harder but the dry is simpler. There are different types of dry also. I really like the spray through the MAF type dry shot. Its just so simple. Best advice I can give you is start with a small shot (say around 30hp) and work your way up.
#5
it is an age old argument of wet vs dry. dry has some advantages and wet has some advantages. i went with the wet kit for simplicity in tuning. i just pulled some timing and basically was done with the tune.
safety switches. you need a wide open throttle switch that your throttle blade will hit and allow the current to flow through the circuit to your noids. only way it will open is when the pedal is all the way to the floor. electric throttle people probably go under the gas peddle.
on/off switch (toggle). simply put this is where the power comes in at and then is dispersed out to the wot switch when you arm it. if you don't arm it, it won't spray because there is no power passing the switch.
fuel pressure safety switch. this is used for protection of the fuel getting low. such as, you spray nitrous and the fuel demand isn't being met, it shuts the noids off so nothing sprays. this way, you don't end up spraying nitrous and not enough fuel and run lean then boom.
window switch. if you have a stock trans or a manual you need this. what this does is it turns the nitrous on and off at certain rpms. so lets say you arm the system with your on off toggle switch. power is sitting at the window switch waiting for the right rpm before it turns on. 3000 rpm and it opens allowing the current to go to the wot switch, then that goes to the noids and here comes the nitrous. once a shut off rpm is met, it will turn close and not allow the current to pass untill it is again at 3K rpms.
******this is designed to save your tranny the abuse of spraying through the shifts. ***** you won't see the same gain a buddy will see if you use a window switch. if he sprays out of the hole and you don't, he will start leaving you. while your nitrous turns off for the tranny to shift and his keeps spraying, he is going to walk further away from you. (providing you both have the same mods and normally run the same times)
my advice, use the switch. these tranny's need the extra help.
also there are other safety things, like a blow down tube. if your burst disc lets go your nitrous will spray outside of the vehicle and not in it.
heater controller. allows you to turn the heater on and forget about it. it acts like a thermostat. gets to a certain pressure then shuts the heater off. when the pressure drops back down it will turn it back on. this is so you don't forget to turn the heater off and over pressurize the bottle.
some people run every single saftey thing they can. some don't. it's a matter of weather or not you can afford to break things or not. if not, then spend the extra and get the stuff. if you don't care, then mount a bottle in there and spray away.
if i have missed something or said something not accurate will someone please correct me and add to this.
safety switches. you need a wide open throttle switch that your throttle blade will hit and allow the current to flow through the circuit to your noids. only way it will open is when the pedal is all the way to the floor. electric throttle people probably go under the gas peddle.
on/off switch (toggle). simply put this is where the power comes in at and then is dispersed out to the wot switch when you arm it. if you don't arm it, it won't spray because there is no power passing the switch.
fuel pressure safety switch. this is used for protection of the fuel getting low. such as, you spray nitrous and the fuel demand isn't being met, it shuts the noids off so nothing sprays. this way, you don't end up spraying nitrous and not enough fuel and run lean then boom.
window switch. if you have a stock trans or a manual you need this. what this does is it turns the nitrous on and off at certain rpms. so lets say you arm the system with your on off toggle switch. power is sitting at the window switch waiting for the right rpm before it turns on. 3000 rpm and it opens allowing the current to go to the wot switch, then that goes to the noids and here comes the nitrous. once a shut off rpm is met, it will turn close and not allow the current to pass untill it is again at 3K rpms.
******this is designed to save your tranny the abuse of spraying through the shifts. ***** you won't see the same gain a buddy will see if you use a window switch. if he sprays out of the hole and you don't, he will start leaving you. while your nitrous turns off for the tranny to shift and his keeps spraying, he is going to walk further away from you. (providing you both have the same mods and normally run the same times)
my advice, use the switch. these tranny's need the extra help.
also there are other safety things, like a blow down tube. if your burst disc lets go your nitrous will spray outside of the vehicle and not in it.
heater controller. allows you to turn the heater on and forget about it. it acts like a thermostat. gets to a certain pressure then shuts the heater off. when the pressure drops back down it will turn it back on. this is so you don't forget to turn the heater off and over pressurize the bottle.
some people run every single saftey thing they can. some don't. it's a matter of weather or not you can afford to break things or not. if not, then spend the extra and get the stuff. if you don't care, then mount a bottle in there and spray away.
if i have missed something or said something not accurate will someone please correct me and add to this.
#6
I think you hit the nail on the head Goshawk.
Definately get a window switch your tranny will thank you and also the fpss since oyu are already using quite a bit of your fuelig capapbility on just running the motor at WOT you need the fpss. I would also get a fp gauge to keep and eye on it too. Ny_trex is coming out with a bottle heater that uses a dual ring setup to heat up the bottle quick pretty sweet setup IMO. Might want to think about an inline fuel pump too. FYI I sprayed my truck out of the whole with a 3000 stall and never had a problem I would spray it out of the hole never had a puddling problem or anything 3000 seems to be high enough not to drowned out the motor and run good.

Definately get a window switch your tranny will thank you and also the fpss since oyu are already using quite a bit of your fuelig capapbility on just running the motor at WOT you need the fpss. I would also get a fp gauge to keep and eye on it too. Ny_trex is coming out with a bottle heater that uses a dual ring setup to heat up the bottle quick pretty sweet setup IMO. Might want to think about an inline fuel pump too. FYI I sprayed my truck out of the whole with a 3000 stall and never had a problem I would spray it out of the hole never had a puddling problem or anything 3000 seems to be high enough not to drowned out the motor and run good.
#7
i sprayed mine out of the hole with the stock stall and never had an issue. it didn't hit as hard as spraying it out'a the hole with a 3200 stall though. feels like the front end is coming off the ground lol
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#8
We are putting some new kits together. Complete with the safety stuff (one dry kit has been added to site). High quality and reasonably price. Check the site and give me a shout. I'll work you a better deal than on the web site. Only for ls1tech and the truck guys.
Robert
Robert
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Either a wet or Dry system will get the job done. A wet system will produce better torque and performance gains.. The key is to add all the needed safety features such as a window switch and fuel pressure safety switch. A bottle heater, purge and nitrous pressure gauge will help the system function to its full potential. I suggest a NX system for a top quality wet sytem. Shop around and you can find the systems at very competitive pricing.
Dave
Dave
#10
Would you trust a company that does not follow the rules and knowingly spams a forum when they are not s supporting and paying vendor like us?
If you want to pay alot more for nothing sure use them
But if you want a QUALITY kit and a much better price, we'de be happy to help you!
If you want to pay alot more for nothing sure use them
But if you want a QUALITY kit and a much better price, we'de be happy to help you!


