damn i wouldnt trust those numbes too well.. the HP and tq is only suppose to cross at 5250RPM.. not 4600

 

im not real sure how its suppose to be on the chart honestly, what differance does it make if it crosses at 4600 or 5250? Just curious. And the shop that was doing the dyno day does alot of tuning for this area and have built alot of cars ranging between 8 sec - 15 sec vehicles, the do specialize in ford vehicles though, but work on all kinds.

Also was starting to wonder and about the smoothness of my pulls as well, mine seem to jump up and down all the way through the pull , is that normal? I thought it was supposed to be alot smoother

 

sooo why did they do a 80-150+ pull again? im a lil confused about that.

 

They were doing 3rd gear pulls with the auto's, and i cant remember if it was 4th or 5th gear pulls for standards

 

just be sure if you dyno new parts use that dyno
WHY? because it spit out a high number 295...go anywheres else and it will show a lower number

 

This is just my .02 take it how you want.


Change the dshaft before it takes out the transmission, and/or rear end.
If you would rather double your spending then just wait till it explodes and destroys more parts.

 

To the OP, don't take this as disrespect. I'm simply trying to help you with the following.

Your a/f ratios are extremely lean for WOT. I would ask the tuner to add about 12% more fuel to get you in the low 13's or you will blow your motor up eventually.

Notice the sharp "VVV" jagged lines between 4-4.5k rpms? That's engine knock. Could be from too much timing but judging by how lean it is, it's pretty clear it needs more fuel. That whole "lean is mean" crap is a bunch of BS. Most n/a cars will make peak hp between 12.8-13.5:1 a/f ratio. Sometimes running on the richer side of this range will loose some power but gain torque. The reverse is also generally true. Expect your power and torque to pick up further when you move your a/f ratios into this range.

You're probably knocking throughout the whole rev range by running that lean but by design automatics tend to hide knock from the dyno much easier than through a manual transmission. Yes, knock can be seen on a dyno chart by turning the smoothing down to zero like on your chart and knowing what to look for since even a really bad wheel bearing can show up. If knocking is bad enough, it can be heard or even felt through the gas pedal at times, especially on manual transmissions.

Good luck and again, I'm not trying to bash you. Just ran across your chart on google images doing some research and couldn't hold not saying anything about it and yes, I've been tuning for 9 years now with all manufacturers.

 

The reason it doesn't cross at 5250 is because the torque and power side of the charts are not scaled the same. Take a look and you'll notice one scales to 350 and the other to 400. It's easy to forget to do this but 2 simple clicks of the mouse will scale both the same and cause it to cross at 5250 rpms as usual.

Also, tuning is essentially the same from car to car (except rotarys) regardless of cylinders in that the target a/f range will be almost identical and tuning ignition value is almost the same (keep adding timing till it stops making power and come back a degree or so for safety). Just so you know, if you add timing pass the point it stops making power you'll loose power and start knocking. Some engines are more sensitive than others when it comes to adding timing past this point but it's eventually the same outcome regardless of engine or manufacturer.

 

Yea like transfer case and muffler...lol!

 

I figured the roughness was from noise from using an inductive rpm pickup around a sparkplug wire, although you are correct that knock would look similiar. If the knock settings havent been changed though, the decay is pretty slow so it should spike, then smoothen out, then spike again if it was real knock, but his is unsteady all the time... That afr looks like stoich...I have to question if the wideband was even hooked up?