v.pv

Hello everyone , i have a 2010 5.3L single cab 6L80 sierra
currently running Long tube pacesetter
off road pacesetter y-pipe
Volant cold air intake
magnaflow dual catback and a tune

im looking through doing a head and cam for my truck

i use the truck everyday

no towing no heavy stuff

* the current build im looking at is

* DoD/AFM delete kit from texas speed performance :
16 Chevrolet Performance Lifters (28-12499225)
- GM MLS 5.3L/5.7L #28-12498544
- ARP Head Bolts #46-134-3610
- Include L92 Valley Cover w/o PCV Provision # 28-12598832 (Truck/G8 Applications)
- ARP Crank Bolt #46-234-2503
- Include GM 3-Bolt 4x Cam Gear & ARP Cam Bolts
- Include GM Oil Pan Gasket (28-12612350)

* texas speed dual spring cam package :
- 228R, .600"/.600", 112 LSA
- Change to 110 LSA
- 7.400"
- TSP .660" Dual Spring Kit w/ Two-Piece Seat & Seal, Titanium Retainers, PAC Springs #199-PACPOL660SpringKit
- Rollmaster Single Row Timing Set - 4x Cam Gear (11-CS1190)
- Melling High Pressure Oil Pump (122-MEL10295)
- Include Cam Bolt/Gasket Kit w/ ARP Bolt #28-CamGskKitARP

* About the valves , im thinking of

Manley 2.000 for the intake
Manley 1.600 for the exhaust

* Replace the stock torque converter with Circle D 3200-3400 RPM stall

* Head porting and mill CNC job ( Need help with port and mill specs )

* texas speed long tube 1 7/8 stainless steel headers with y-pipe

* Get a tune

im looking for high rpm power mainly for racing ( Street racing tho no 1/4 drag racing )

Any help , info and recommendation would be helpful !

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

What’s wrong with the stock valves? Unless you’re going forced induction, I would leave the stock stuff, just get them ported and milled.030 to bump the compression up a little. Same wth the ARP stuff, stock replacement crank and head bolts will be just fine

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Agreed, ARP stuff is kind of flushing money away. You'll spend all that extra money when stock replacement bolts will be more than enough to do the job.

v.pv

v.pv

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

That torque converter....I have a 3000-3200 Circle D in my 4L80E. Just accelerating in traffic, the thing sits at 2500RPM and if I need to get moving, flashes and sits right at 3200RPM. For my daily, it's a little excessive for me. I would go with something below 2800RPM. It's still enough to get the truck moving.

v.pv

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

Lol...no, my bad, when I hit the gas to accelerate with traffic, the engine goes to 2500RPM and sits at 2500RPM shifting through the gears until it locks up at 50.

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and if I hit the gas more than 50% or so, it will flash to 3200 and sit at 3200 until I ease off. The converter is doing what it's supposed to do but it's just a little more stall than I would like in my daily.

GREENSIERRA

Not to be a dick but if you flash it and hold it and it stays at 3200 you have some issues
lol