need help with my cam change
 

hey i bought this cam:

Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"TR 224-112" - 224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA 1700-6600 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Requires computer tuning on automatic transmission cars. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.

but thats all i have, what spings do u recommend me, pushrods and what else??

i wont change heads, i dont wana take em off

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=439843

im getting ready to put the same cam in my truck, see my thread for other needed parts

ls1howto link below should help with your install aslo

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

someone told me i have too change all this:
COMPCAMS LS1 VALVE SPRINGS
LS1 VALVE STEM SEALS, EXHAUST
LS1 VALVE STEM SEALS
LS2 LIFTER GUIDE TRAY
GM LS7 LIFTER SET of 16
GM LS1, 6, 2, GEN III TIMING CHAIN
CAM & HEAD SWAP GASKET PACKAGE
MELLING LS1 OIL PUMP

when i change my cam is that true? or is pushrods, cam and springs enough if i dont take the heads off

thanx

you will need to change valve springs, i see no need for valve stem seals, nobody has been able to tell me the purpose of ls2 lifter trays, ls7 lifters are a good upgrade over stock, an ls2 timing set should be on your list, a cam and head swap gasket package is a must, and a ported ls6 oil pump is your best option

all of this is discussed in the thread i made that i linked above

I'd grab some PAC 1218 valve springs and some hardened 7.4" pushrods, and new gaskets and coolant.

Just make sure you've got all the tools you'll need (a good spring compressor (Crane cams tool), all sockets and extentions, rent a chrysler harmonic balancer tool).

Also, depending on your mileage, you might or might not need to change timing chain. Your stock oil pump will be fine, the reason some people say to change oil pumps is because in the early LS1 F-bodys, they had oil pump problems.

if you are changing lifters/lifter trays you have to pull the heads man.

you dont need to do that for a simple cam swap.

cam, PR's, springs and a few new gaskets if you want them... depends on how many miles are on your engine. i re-used all my o-ring type seals, but did the swap at 30K miles.

you dont need all the other things you mentioned.

I just read a post on another forum that the GM says the stock rockers are only good to .550. I know people are running them past that, but if you've ever seen them come apart, a set of adjustable rollers will seem cheap.

with bronze valve guides

change out the springs and PR's You do not have to change the rest of it.. I have also heard that about the rockers, but have never seen a set break, somthing else usually does first..

That's interesting to hear...that's the second reference to a weakness in the stock rockers that I've read in the past month. (I didn't get any info on the first reference though). I'm feeling better and better about my Harland Sharps though...they've been going strong for 16k now :nod:

Could you direct me to that link? I'm curious to know the weak point in the stockers...Harland Sharp offers a trunion upgrade to the stockers that seems pretty cool