HELP! Engine whine after intake swap
 

So just today I swapped over to a TBSS style intake and LS2 TB. Soldered in the pigtails and connected all the sensors except for the evap. my evap is not turned off yet, so it threw a code, but as I pulled into my neighborhood after a 5 minute drive the engine started to whine at idle. Anyone have any ideas? Theres a video of first start up and then later at idle.


:rage:

Pull the oil fill cap off and see if it quits

I ended up pulling the intake and putting on another set of gaskets, re torqued them to spec, checked my hoses going to the valve covers and seemed to fix the issue. We will see how it holds up for the tune tomorrow.

Might just be a leak try righting the bolts up ...don't break them. And check the pvc hose on back of intake might be on all the way either...

So when I did the hydroboost swap yesterday, I changed the power steering pump. Noise didn't quit. Changed the water pump, a/c and serpentine belt tensioner, and put NEW intake gaskets on. Tightened the intake down very well, and it STILL hasn't stopped. I have no drop in oil pressure, no lack of power, just this terrible sound. It only happens at idle or when slowing down at a light, the noise quits under power. When you stick your head under the truck it really sounds like its coming from the back of the motor, but this did not happen before the intake swap at all. I hate to assume this, but could it be a cam bearing? I've got no oil leaks either.

Holy Santa Clause shit, I just saw this comment, went outside and tried it and it worked! I ran a damn vacuum line the wrong way. Thanks for the heads up.
:bang:

:cheers: Glad I could help!!

When I changed my intake I got a hellacious whine....dunno wth, still have it but I ignore it

Its cause you're pulling vacuum from both valve covers, I pulled my intake off after just a couple days of this noise and oil started dripping out of the runners, its not a good thing. The passenger side valve cover is supposed to breath in, allow air to circulate through the crank case, and the vacuum pulls it from the valve cover on the driver side. Plug up the connection for vacuum on the front of the intake, and run the hose from the pass side valve cover into your intake tube after the MAF and before the TB. I got a little bung kit for like $5 from PepBoys yesterday and made it happen.

The reason it does this vs the old intake is because there was a breather hole behind the TB on the old intake, before it got into the runners and created vacuum. You have to replicate this by tapping into the intake tube before the TB on these newer intakes.
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