Le_greenmachine

So after months of shopping for a good "tow" cam, I think i finally found the one I want for my LQ9.
It is the vinci "Butt kicker" Camshaft. (If anyone has experience with this id love to hear some feedback)
The specs are DUR @ .050" 210*/218*
LIFT .552 / .552
LSA 114*
4A
My question is what springs would you recommend? I have a brand new set of LS6 blue springs that I was hoping to use but I dont want to be binding them if theyre too close to max lift.
This is going to be a reliable DD/Towing rig not a drag pickup. The company offers a "dual spring kit and chromoly pushrods" for $379.98, but doesnt list the specs of the springs. Should i just order that and call it a day?
TIA.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

Le_greenmachine

Good to know. And thats what I was hoping to hear, I think I was overthinking cam springs for whatever reason.

RedXray

At only .552 lift I'd throw in a set of PAC 1218 springs (single beehive) good to .600 for $145 then use that $225 saved for other mods. These are in my LQ9 with .585 lift, turning up to 6500 RPM with zero issues.

Le_greenmachine

RedXray

I used the stock ones but you'll need to use a pushrod length checker to make sure you are getting the correct lifter preload. Stock in your application is fine as long as the length is correct. The length can change if the new cams base circle is slightly different or the heads have been resurfaced etc... that is why it's always a good idea to use the length checker, whether you decide to use the stock or aftermarket pushrods.

I use the Competition Cams 77021 length checker. It's a cheap ($22) tool that is not very hard to use. There are a lot of YouTube vids showing how to use the checker in order to find the correct lifter preload.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

GM Blue springs are good to .570 lift.

Vinci makes no mention of any "spec" on there single beehive spring on there site. Obviously it will work but the money could be better spent elsewhere. If you enjoy spending Extra money Go for it!

Have you shopped around for similar parts and pricing?

WS6 store
Texas Speed
Brian Tooley Racing

Le_greenmachine

I have shopped around for a month, I have never heard of ws6 store ill check them out. But BTR wasnt really what i was looking for, and i couldnt get a response out of texas speed.

TFA303

Great thread.
I have a question about using the work sequence you'd use with the pushrod checkers:
It's clear that these have to be used with the engine torn apart. So do most folks install the new cam, check the pushrod length, then order new ones and leave it torn apart until the new rods arrive?

I'm asking because most videos (and the excellent how-to at LS1Howto.com) don't show this; generally the cam goes in, springs and pushrods go in, and the engine is buttoned up.

Or am I missing the point, and are precisely fitted pushrods not that important for a daily driver where folks like me start the project on Friday night and need the truck for work on Monday morning?

RB04Av

They need to be fitted precisely "enough"; but it's hard to know what that is without measuring.

If you're using all stock parts, like the factory did, then it's not usually necessary; all that stuff is made to go together right. But once you start changing things; milling heads, different gaskets, different cam, etc., that's all out the window. The wrong length will either be extra noisy, or will not let the valves close and will run terrible.

So, yes, most of us build the motor to completion, except for rockers, push rods, and valve covers; use the adjustable push rod to find the length that is exactly zero lash, on an intake and an exhaust, at least one on each side, and preferably the 4 corner cylinders; then order push rods that are that long, plus the desired preload, which is a function of the lifters you're using.