Need help dead in the parking lot P0106 code
03-28-2019, 01:10 PM
#41
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
It's fine the best scanner I got is the VCM scanner you use to tune with HP tuner.
At what point do I need to look at pulling the motor and sending it off to be reworked.
If a valve kissed piston I assume I do. But do I need to still pull it if it's just a lifter and a cam that messed up?
At what point do I need to look at pulling the motor and sending it off to be reworked.
If a valve kissed piston I assume I do. But do I need to still pull it if it's just a lifter and a cam that messed up?
03-28-2019, 01:17 PM
#42
If it's a lifter and cam you can yank the heads and the front cover. Some people pull the radiator and condenser to get the cam out, some move the condenser to the side and let it hang.
If it is a cam and lifter set you'll need some extra cheap oil to flush the motor with by leaving the oil pan drain plug out and a pan under it and just pouring oil through the motor to carry the metal out.
I have a feeling it may be worse than a lifter and cam, cause when those wear out the lifter still opens and closes the valve and they run okay but make a lot of noise. If you found that you've dropped a valve then it's most likely best to just grab a used motor. I've had far better luck over the years with used motors that lower cost rebuilds, a quality rebuild or new engine is gonna cost a fortune.
I really can't believe this happened to you if it is internal damage, meaning it's so odd and abnormal for one to just fail like that, but it does happen. Sucks big time.
Concentrate on pulling the valve covers and inspecting all the valves, their heights, and turning the motor over and watching all the rockers and valves, make sure none stay stuck down if they are all there. If everything looks good check compression. I would pull the plugs out to make it easier to turn over the motor by hand.
If it is a cam and lifter set you'll need some extra cheap oil to flush the motor with by leaving the oil pan drain plug out and a pan under it and just pouring oil through the motor to carry the metal out.
I have a feeling it may be worse than a lifter and cam, cause when those wear out the lifter still opens and closes the valve and they run okay but make a lot of noise. If you found that you've dropped a valve then it's most likely best to just grab a used motor. I've had far better luck over the years with used motors that lower cost rebuilds, a quality rebuild or new engine is gonna cost a fortune.
I really can't believe this happened to you if it is internal damage, meaning it's so odd and abnormal for one to just fail like that, but it does happen. Sucks big time.
Concentrate on pulling the valve covers and inspecting all the valves, their heights, and turning the motor over and watching all the rockers and valves, make sure none stay stuck down if they are all there. If everything looks good check compression. I would pull the plugs out to make it easier to turn over the motor by hand.
03-28-2019, 04:44 PM
#43
I recommend diagnosing the sensor issue first because, given there are mechanical issues internally, you don't know what caused them. If you just fix the symptom and fire it back up, this could all happen again and ruin your rebuilt engine.
MAP sensor diagnostics are pretty robust. They haven't changed much in 25 years or so. You're not going to trip one of those faults unless there is an issue related to the sensor. Like I said, I'd start with the 5V supply to the MAP sensor.
You've got nothing to lose hooking up a meter while your broken engine is running. You do after its rebuilt. I don't turn wrenches professionally, but I am a software engineer and I do work for GM...
MAP sensor diagnostics are pretty robust. They haven't changed much in 25 years or so. You're not going to trip one of those faults unless there is an issue related to the sensor. Like I said, I'd start with the 5V supply to the MAP sensor.
You've got nothing to lose hooking up a meter while your broken engine is running. You do after its rebuilt. I don't turn wrenches professionally, but I am a software engineer and I do work for GM...
03-28-2019, 05:04 PM
#44
I recommend diagnosing the sensor issue first because, given there are mechanical issues internally, you don't know what caused them. If you just fix the symptom and fire it back up, this could all happen again and ruin your rebuilt engine.
MAP sensor diagnostics are pretty robust. They haven't changed much in 25 years or so. You're not going to trip one of those faults unless there is an issue related to the sensor. Like I said, I'd start with the 5V supply to the MAP sensor.
You've got nothing to lose hooking up a meter while your broken engine is running. You do after its rebuilt. I don't turn wrenches professionally, but I am a software engineer and I do work for GM...
MAP sensor diagnostics are pretty robust. They haven't changed much in 25 years or so. You're not going to trip one of those faults unless there is an issue related to the sensor. Like I said, I'd start with the 5V supply to the MAP sensor.
You've got nothing to lose hooking up a meter while your broken engine is running. You do after its rebuilt. I don't turn wrenches professionally, but I am a software engineer and I do work for GM...
If you want to check the 5 volt reference, just unplug the map, turn the key on and grab your volt meter and look for 5 volts at the Gray and Red wire. Should be Gray with a Red stripe.
Black with Light Green is the ground (low reference)
Lt Green and White is the signal return back to the PCM
Weird **** happens and sometimes things do **** you don't expect, but I have never seen a MAP sensor cause a violent shaking of the engine and banging sounds or cause a mechanical failure on a stock vehicle. If it had power adders and went lean then maybe, but you would notice it was running low on power first since fuel control was out of whack.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 03-28-2019 at 05:09 PM.
03-28-2019, 08:24 PM
#45
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Thread Starter
03-28-2019, 08:24 PM
#46
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Drivers side number 5 I think
03-28-2019, 08:54 PM
#48
******* sweet man. I have had several cars come in with broken springs and so far each of them were great with just a spring swap. You are most likely fine if you just slap a spring on it.
I say sweet cause it didn't drop a valve all the way out and you likely do not have any further damage besides just that spring. But the valve is hanging open with the spring broken like that.
You can get a spring compressor at autozone and pull that spring too.
Kinda wild it broke, but it happens from time to time on stock motors.
I say sweet cause it didn't drop a valve all the way out and you likely do not have any further damage besides just that spring. But the valve is hanging open with the spring broken like that.
You can get a spring compressor at autozone and pull that spring too.
Kinda wild it broke, but it happens from time to time on stock motors.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 03-28-2019 at 09:24 PM.
03-28-2019, 09:20 PM
#49
Passenger seat............ Driver seat
8...................................... 7
6...................................... 5
4.......................................3
2...................................... 1
......Radiator/front of truck
Thats the cylinder layout. By the way the truck is acting that should be an intake valve. If it isn't that's interesting.
If you're in Dallas I may be able to swing by and help you with it and bring a spring compressor.
8...................................... 7
6...................................... 5
4.......................................3
2...................................... 1
......Radiator/front of truck
Thats the cylinder layout. By the way the truck is acting that should be an intake valve. If it isn't that's interesting.
If you're in Dallas I may be able to swing by and help you with it and bring a spring compressor.