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Circle D 3000-3200 stall 0-100

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Old 02-20-2018, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
None of those cars listed come with truck manifolds and exhaust, they all come with manifolds/exhaust systems that flow much better and support the boost.

When running a power adder you add a lot of heat and need to get air in and out as quickly as possible. You're cramming way more in, it needs to be able to get out.

Besides that, one of the biggest power adders to a boosted car is free flowing exhaust.

I see this as hooking a leaf blower to a straw..
Headers to no headers is a kinda of toss up depending on the application and goals though. Most of the time it's not the manifold that is the problem but the rest of the exhaust like the converters. Lots of extra power makes the converters the restriction and a point of failure if they start to clog up and melt down.

If it makes that extra 100-120hp without headers and does what you want it to that would be great. Then if you wanted headers later on to gain a little power up top and lose a little down low because of the change in the engines VE, you could do that too.
Old 02-21-2018, 01:31 AM
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Gor Question: Lets say you decided to go headers now,would you install them or would you pay someone ?
Old 02-21-2018, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gonzo 6.2
Gor Question: Lets say you decided to go headers now,would you install them or would you pay someone ?
I would probably just do them myself with Zak's help. I've helped put headers on a couple trucks. Biggest pain was the drivers side from what I remember but other than that not to bad.
Old 02-21-2018, 07:57 AM
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You gotta get this to the track asap.
Old 02-21-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Choda
You gotta get this to the track asap.
April 7th and 8th!
Old 02-21-2018, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ZO6Ted
I agree with everything you said no argument here but I'm pretty sure my truck is already high 7's since Sam tuned it and I don't have headers. It is a pleasure to drive with no issues so not sure if I ever will or not. To go much further I would pretty much need fuel system and cam to really do it right and it's my daily work truck. I like it stealth.
I was fixing to say high 7's is a tall claim tune only, then I saw your sig. Sam has tuned all my **** for the last 15 or so years, I'll be taking this truck too him hopefully pretty soon.

Originally Posted by FFDP
Headers to no headers is a kinda of toss up depending on the application and goals though. Most of the time it's not the manifold that is the problem but the rest of the exhaust like the converters. Lots of extra power makes the converters the restriction and a point of failure if they start to clog up and melt down.

If it makes that extra 100-120hp without headers and does what you want it to that would be great. Then if you wanted headers later on to gain a little power up top and lose a little down low because of the change in the engines VE, you could do that too.
I agree and it'll be fine, it's really a "to each their own" type deal. I like to do all supporting mods first then turn up the power, I look at everything as a package deal and the better the package is put together the better everything works/more power more efficient, and in some cases durability goes up as well. I should have been more clear too, I kept saying headers but when I say headers I'm also talking no cats and good flow from there back.

Originally Posted by Choda
You gotta get this to the track asap.
This!

Glad you got it sorted out Gorske, I'm interested to see those 60ft times and what you see at the track stalling vs flashing.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; 02-21-2018 at 02:03 PM.
Old 03-01-2018, 02:29 PM
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Tuesday night got some good 55 degree weather here and not a cloud in the sky. Tried several different ways to launch the truck. With a passenger(160lbs), 1/4 tank of e85, DA of 665, and the same exact spot we always do a 0 to 75mph logged pull. Brake stalled, 4wd hi launch, and switching to 2wd right after the launch was 5.52 0 to 60. Stalled to 1400rpm then flashed, 4wd hi, and switching to 2wd right after the launch was 5.57 0 to 60. The final brake stalled, 4wd auto, switched to 2wd right after the launch was 5.47 0 to 60. I will try all three again at the track but right now stalled auto 4wd launch is the quickest in my truck. Decent jump from stock.
Attached Thumbnails Circle D 3000-3200 stall 0-100-screenshot_20180223-212615.png  

Last edited by Gorske; 03-01-2018 at 03:50 PM.
Old 03-01-2018, 03:21 PM
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No data behind it but I would think starting in 4x4 would reduce negative effect of the transfer case has from being in AUTO where its in 2wd and converts to 4x4 when traction is lost. something tells me that a ton of stress on clutches.
Old 03-01-2018, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Choda
No data behind it but I would think starting in 4x4 would reduce negative effect of the transfer case has from being in AUTO where its in 2wd and converts to 4x4 when traction is lost. something tells me that a ton of stress on clutches.
That is where I'm curious as well. On my truck and my 2015 Silverado when you pull up the off-road display it says it is in AWD and the front axel is engaged. When you put it in Auto 4wd you can hear it engage just like 4hi. I know prior to the 2014+ body style it just engages 4wd when it detects wheel slip. This is from a salesman not a tech but he said the 2014+ trucks in Auto 4wd it is actually has a 30/70 split and in 4wd hi it's a 50/50 split. I should probably do more research before I do more auto 4wd launches. Especially once I supercharge it lol.

Last edited by Gorske; 03-01-2018 at 04:03 PM.
Old 03-01-2018, 10:05 PM
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I wanna see the internals of the transfer case. I haven't kept up with them ever, so I don't even know if they are solid coupled anymore (chains, gears) or if the coupling is adjustable by clutches or some sort of fluid coupler

Obviously you're saying it's adjustable in some way, but anyone know anything about the inner workings?


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