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I'll try but there was a line on the report on my charger recently about are all 4 sensors reporting and functioning. Either way I'm installing a cat to knock down the smell and the tone just a touch.
I'll try but there was a line on the report on my charger recently about are all 4 sensors reporting and functioning. Either way I'm installing a cat to knock down the smell and the tone just a touch.
Yeah the only manufacturer that I'm certain it works with is GM. I'm not familiar with other manufacturers and how that goes. When I used to build little hondas (I know it sounds funny but at least they were turbo and nitrous cars) I could manipulate the tune to get them to pass with no cat.
Anyway, there absolutely is a smell without them and it is louder so you need them regardless. You may find if you leave the rear 02's active that a single aftermarket cat won't be sufficient enough to keep cat codes away. I see it all the time. You'll still get the P0420 and P0430 codes for catalytic converter efficiency below threshold, meaning the cats aren't near as efficient as the OEM ones. So you'll still likely have to turn those codes off and tune out the rear 02's
need some help.. getting prepared for install with headers and 6.2 exhaust. I can’t find a ball/socket connection in 3.5” for the y pipe adapter supplied with Speed Engineering kit.. any leads? my truck is a 2014 5.3 which is why I don’t have the ball socket connector now just wanted to add this as a teaser pic. Lol
Mine came with one. I don't think I'll be using mine but I'll know tomorrow. If not I'll shoot you a PM and send it to you.
By the way, driver side header, take the steering shaft out and feed the header in through the top. Would have saved me from scratching the hell out of my coating had I known that. Passenger side goes in easily from the bottom. Take the spark plug wires off. They just get in the way. Otherwise this is the easiest header job I've ever done in my life. My charger took me almost 12hrs. I'm 4 into this one and that's including removing the complete cat back at the same time.
after looking at the factory exhaust it seems it’s just a basic clamp. i was under the impression it was like this style of bracket to fit. Just hit it with a rubber hammer once it slides in and then clamp it? I want to do it this weekend but I don’t have a lift.. the guy who would install them won’t be able to for 3 weeks.. decisions
If you can source a factory clamp from a 6.2 truck it should work. I used my stock clamp at that connection. Different years but im sure that clamp is the same from the looks of it.
googling the factory parts it seems GM only used a simple clamp and not the ball/socket style. I was wanting to install sunday but i’m having a weird issue with remote start and have it dialed down to negative battery cable or battery itself and I don’t want to run it up to dealership with headers on and a check engine light as they might try to screw me in diagnosing my issue. the pic i attached is the stock clamp GM uses on 6.2 exhaust, I think
The previous gen trucks use a straight flange with just 2 bolts that connect it. The hangers don't match up but I'm planning on cutting those flanges off and welding those to my high flow cat and the rest of the exhaust so I can have a regular disconnect instead of a goofy *** ball socket dumbass joint. My charger uses ball joint but it's the normal kind like posted above. Not an over engineered bean counter special.
googling the factory parts it seems GM only used a simple clamp and not the ball/socket style. I was wanting to install sunday but i’m having a weird issue with remote start and have it dialed down to negative battery cable or battery itself and I don’t want to run it up to dealership with headers on and a check engine light as they might try to screw me in diagnosing my issue. the pic i attached is the stock clamp GM uses on 6.2 exhaust, I think
03-25-2019, 06:50 AM
