someotherguy

Those look way better than that old tech stock type crap I was describing. I remember you made these for the older trucks but didn't know you had some ready to test for the newer models. Nice work!

Richard

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Haha thanks! Yeah I've had these ready for a few months, but the couple people have sent them to test fit couldn't get to it for one reason or another, so I haven't officially put them for sale even though I have material on hand to make plenty. That and my other stuff keeps me plenty busy haha

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

The main reason I want them is so I'll never have to replace them again. I know me, I'll break these often if they are as shitty as the OEM 07-13 mounts are. And I was already planning on doing the passenger mount soon.

By the way if you don't already know the trick to doing them fast on the 07-13 is doing them from the top and bottom not through the fender wells. Long *** extension to take out the 3 15mm on each side, jack up the motor till the intake hits the cowl. Drop the starter down and sway bar and unbolt the mounts from the block and they come right out. Fortunately I have not had to do a 4wd so I don't know if that works for them or not. My other tech buddies do the mounts through the fender wells. Funk dat, I hate fighting with them (fender liners). Other guys take the fender liners out for plug changes too. I can change plugs faster from under the hood than taking the wheels off and fender liners out.

That shouldn't happen with me, I'm a tech and have 6 lifts at my disposal daily so as long as we are still slow like we are now and my appointment goes okay next week I should be able to take pics in less than two weeks, be sooner if next week wasn't what it is, but I'm down all next week.

Jonblarc7

Not to derail but how the hell do you do the plugs without taking the fenders out on these newer trucks. Luckily I could reach the one plug wire I needed to pull off through the fender liner because of my 1.5 body lift. But damn I couldn't get the wire off from above.

Bgbldodge

It can be done but I'm not that flexible anymore. I pop the tire and fender liner off. Tons of access.

Slapps74

I would be interested in a set of those mounts. Let me know when they are available or PM me if you want someone else to beat on them. Truck makes close to 700 to the tire.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Lay over the radiator and reach in there and get em.

It's easier to do them with the fender wells out but I hate pulling the fender wells.

Jonblarc7

Bring this back because I just found out after dropping my truck off for the vacuum pump warranty work that both my motor mounts are bad and the drivers side moves a lot according to the tech.

Got any tips for how to do this on a 2014 4wd??????????????????

I have always heard a vibration in the front left of the truck. Almost like I can feel it vibrating under my right foot. And it will vibrate at the most random times, it's not like it does it over every bump or around certain turns. I did notices it more when I was pulling my boat the other day. I have replaced wheel bearings, upper control arm bushings and was getting ready to do the CV axle on that side because of this sounds. It's not loud and I'm probably the only one that notices it but it drives me crazy.

You think a motor mount could cause this vibration.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You have to move the header I believe for the Gen5 motor mounts. I have some of my poly ones ready if you never want to replace them again

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Hard to say if they are causing any vibration.

But probably not based on the design of them. There are some designs (much simpler designs) with rubber wrapped around metal and as the rubber wears away you'll get into metal to metal contact and get a vibration.

I didn't notice any extra vibration when mine was broke. But if you had it in gear with your foot on the brake and gave it gas the engine would jump up on the driver side (do this in drive for the driver side) and my passenger side lifted up more gently (check pass side by putting in reverse). When the engine pops up and jerks to a stop the mount is broke. When the engine moves up and down but does so without a slam at the end of the movement, the mount is okay. Sorry not super technical but it's how we look for busted mounts.

On mine I get to the 3 mount to frame bolts by going over the fender and using a real long extension to get to the 3 bolts with 15mm bolt heads.
Then put a jack and block of wood under the oil pan and jack up engine until the intake manifold makes contact with the body of the truck above the intake (the cowl). Careful, don't push this and break the intake.
Then there are 4 15mm bolt head bolts that hold the mounts to the block.
I've been really really lucky and only had to do mounts on 2wd trucks. On a 2wd you drop the starter out and the sway bar down off the frame (leave it connected to control arms) and the mounts come right out if you don't have headers. If you have headers it's a fight getting them down and out but they will go. Well with my headers they do.
On 4wd you may have to pull the mounts through the fender wells or play with them to get them down and around the front axle. Maybe drop drive shaft from t case to axle housing..?

I made a bunch of videos last week on a 2010 of how to do the mounts in under 2 hours. I filmed and had them done in like 1.5. But I have no editor so it's like 5 or so short videos. I need to upload them but I really need to put them into one video somehow. Need an easy way but to be honest I don't care that much, just makes it easier for others. The process is pretty much the same for doing them on a 14+