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Aftermarket l83 heads

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Old 09-06-2018, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Cool, no biggie, I was just curious.

I hear ya, i'm in Dallas and want an excuse to stop by and check the place out.

Careful going much bigger on the cam, most people end up hating it if they put much of a cam in a 5.3, loses low end pretty bad.

When you did the cam, did you do anything with the oil pump or timing chain? Did you just pull the grill, radiator and condenser to swap it? Or can any of that stay in?
The oil pan has to come off to get the oil pump off. Side note, cam bolt torques to 48 ft pounds plus 90 degrees, which is a lot!
Old 09-06-2018, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Cool, no biggie, I was just curious.

I hear ya, i'm in Dallas and want an excuse to stop by and check the place out.

Careful going much bigger on the cam, most people end up hating it if they put much of a cam in a 5.3, loses low end pretty bad.

When you did the cam, did you do anything with the oil pump or timing chain? Did you just pull the grill, radiator and condenser to swap it? Or can any of that stay in?
im not worried about going bigger since I am going to have a 3200 converter anyways but I doubt I’ll swap it I have just been throwing around the idea. I didn’t unbolt the oil pump or drop the oil pan, you can get the cam gear off but it’s a pain but possible. Just make sure you draw reference marks for the crank and the cam because you can’t see the timing marks when they are straight up and down due to the oil pump being huge. Next time I do it I am going to have the engine offset to get the cam phaser in a different position to get it off easier so I’ll make my marks exactly the way I remove it even though it’s offset. I left the grill in place and removed the radiator and condenser, they come out together very easy so I took them out as a pair. Just take your time, if you haven’t tore into one take lots of pictures, go slow and you’ll be good. On a side note be very careful getting the front cover off, it has 2 wires going to the variable displacement oil pump so you can’t actualy remove the cover all the way. The wires are small so when you are prying it off be careful not to let the cover pop off and fall. Just set it aside in the bay
Old 09-07-2018, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Slapps74


The oil pan has to come off to get the oil pump off. Side note, cam bolt torques to 48 ft pounds plus 90 degrees, which is a lot!
I would pull the pan anyway to guarantee I get the o ring right, and pulling the pan is easy on a truck so no biggie. Damn tty/tta bolts!!




Originally Posted by asap216

im not worried about going bigger since I am going to have a 3200 converter anyways but I doubt I’ll swap it I have just been throwing around the idea. I didn’t unbolt the oil pump or drop the oil pan, you can get the cam gear off but it’s a pain but possible. Just make sure you draw reference marks for the crank and the cam because you can’t see the timing marks when they are straight up and down due to the oil pump being huge. Next time I do it I am going to have the engine offset to get the cam phaser in a different position to get it off easier so I’ll make my marks exactly the way I remove it even though it’s offset. I left the grill in place and removed the radiator and condenser, they come out together very easy so I took them out as a pair. Just take your time, if you haven’t tore into one take lots of pictures, go slow and you’ll be good. On a side note be very careful getting the front cover off, it has 2 wires going to the variable displacement oil pump so you can’t actualy remove the cover all the way. The wires are small so when you are prying it off be careful not to let the cover pop off and fall. Just set it aside in the bay
Cool thanks for the info, I'm actually a tech of 20 years so I'm familiar with the insides of engines and have all the tools I need, just curious what specific advise you may have after doing a cam on the new gen truck. Appreciate all the detailed info, very helpful, and I wasn't thinking about the wires but I can see how that would be a big issue/frustration. I have other things like that (short wires/no room etc that try to force you to destroy them) I deal with sometimes.
Old 09-07-2018, 02:53 PM
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Yup my main recommendation is make damn sure you make your own reference marks on the oil pump for the cam and crank or else you will end up like me and going back into it lol. Sweet if you got that much experience you’ll be fine. I’ve been a mechanic for 6 years now but I mainly work on class 8 trucks but right now I am a field mechanic for a frac company in west Texas.
Old 09-07-2018, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by asap216
Yup my main recommendation is make damn sure you make your own reference marks on the oil pump for the cam and crank or else you will end up like me and going back into it lol. Sweet if you got that much experience you’ll be fine. I’ve been a mechanic for 6 years now but I mainly work on class 8 trucks but right now I am a field mechanic for a frac company in west Texas.

Practice makes perfect lol! Now you're a master

How do you like working on big trucks/field tech vs standard passenger automotive? I feel like there's gotta be better out there than the long list of BS there is in the automotive field. I do well for myself, but it's hardly worth it. (edit: I'm currently in a decent situation but spent better part of 20 years in **** situations)

And sorry, I think I derailed your thread
Old 09-07-2018, 07:56 PM
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Man I feel like their is more money in trucks and equipment. I did work for gm for 2 years as the duramax tech but warranty work sucks, I made good money but had to really get after it the entire day. Trucks are more straight forward for the most part. And field service work pays even more, I’m out in west Texas and they got people out here calling themselves mechanics and can still manage to **** up an oil change making 6 figures. Once I’m done in west Texas I am either going back to work at the gm dealer or to a local truck shop we got in our town. Just depends if I want to work for a dealer or a repair shop.
Old 09-10-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by asap216
Man I feel like their is more money in trucks and equipment. I did work for gm for 2 years as the duramax tech but warranty work sucks, I made good money but had to really get after it the entire day. Trucks are more straight forward for the most part. And field service work pays even more, I’m out in west Texas and they got people out here calling themselves mechanics and can still manage to **** up an oil change making 6 figures. Once I’m done in west Texas I am either going back to work at the gm dealer or to a local truck shop we got in our town. Just depends if I want to work for a dealer or a repair shop.
The dealer guys never seem to be happy, that's why I never tried it out. I've always worked in independent shops.

When you say truck shop, you mean 18 wheeler/big rigs?

And for field work, what/who exactly you working for. Switch over to PM if you want, I hate to ruin your thread even though it's too late lol.
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