WTB?? need a DD big cam for a 2008 denali
#1
hey there hp addicts
i have a 2008 yukon denali with a 6.2 mods are littel for now.
ARH 1.7/8 LTs and Vararam intake
i want a none VVT cam lets here recomendations and if you know any spieclists that i can thair help.
its ok if i need a stall but i dont think ill go over a 3000-3200 cause i want a nice dd suv

i have a 2008 yukon denali with a 6.2 mods are littel for now.
ARH 1.7/8 LTs and Vararam intake
i want a none VVT cam lets here recomendations and if you know any spieclists that i can thair help.
its ok if i need a stall but i dont think ill go over a 3000-3200 cause i want a nice dd suv
#2
If you're going to delete the VVT (save's you a lot of headaches, trust me) you basically need a LS3 cam, since the LS3 is basically an L92 without the VVT. GM High Tech Performance magazine did an extensive test on a bunch of streetable LS3 cams a while back. Most of them would probably work for you, but you will need a tune for any cam change. You will probably want to go with something that idles smooth, like maybe the Lingerfelter cam, which still makes decent power.
Here's a link to the GMHT test:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...son/index.html
Good luck and shout back if you have any questions.
Here's a link to the GMHT test:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...son/index.html
Good luck and shout back if you have any questions.
#5
Just did the VVT delete on my truck. The amount of cams available outside the VVT world allows you to get whatever your looking for. I got a VVT cam before the phaser was introduced and as a result had some serious timing issues which led to more serious problems, hence my new sig
.
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#6
If you're going to delete the VVT (save's you a lot of headaches, trust me) you basically need a LS3 cam, since the LS3 is basically an L92 without the VVT. GM High Tech Performance magazine did an extensive test on a bunch of streetable LS3 cams a while back. Most of them would probably work for you, but you will need a tune for any cam change. You will probably want to go with something that idles smooth, like maybe the Lingerfelter cam, which still makes decent power.
Here's a link to the GMHT test:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...son/index.html
Good luck and shout back if you have any questions.
Here's a link to the GMHT test:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...son/index.html
Good luck and shout back if you have any questions.
do you have any vids of your cam?
0-100 or to 120?
how do you like it?
#7
Although with 220 deg intake duration and no overlap, in theory, my cam should idle smooth, but it is still pretty choppy at idle, even with the Blackbear tune, which I have to say idles pretty decent.
AND I've just found an tech article on Comp Cams' website that says that GM used two types of phasers for two different cam cores on the 07-08s, and if you have the wrong phaser/cam core, your cam timing will be off by 13 degrees!!
So, at the end of the day, I would do the VVT delete, simply because its one less thing to worry about and tune for, and get a cam from a manfacturer that can tell you how to tune for that particular cam. Maybe give Comp a call, they have a cam for whatever you need. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Last edited by CI DENALI; Oct 3, 2010 at 11:47 PM.
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#8
Here's a link to a run a while back without nitrous. Was right after I installed a "Slowmaster" muffler that killed the ET. It went from running a best of 8.52 (without N2O) to a 8.96!
If you turn the volume up before the run, you can hear how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIq0ysKUQJU
If you turn the volume up before the run, you can hear how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIq0ysKUQJU
#9
To be honest, I wish I had done the VVT delete too, because I ended up finding out that no one really knows how to tune the phaser curve. I called Mast after I bought the cam and they were totally useless. After several calls, I spoke to Mast himself and he said they couldn't tell me how to tune the phaser, and that I would have to call a tuner and get them to do it for me. So I ended up using a bunch of info I got off the internet (including a tech article the Mast had posted in 2007) and built a phaser curve. It works too, because last weekedn at the track I made several runs back to back, changing only the tune and my truck ran consistently 0.15-0.10 sec better ET's with my "homemade" tune vs. a Blackbear tune. But I still need a lot of work on the tune because my AFR is still only in the high 11's to mid 12's.
Although with 220 deg intake duration and no overlap, in theory, my cam should idle smooth, but it is still pretty choppy at idle, even with the Blackbear tune, which I have to say idles pretty decent.
AND I've just found an tech article on Comp Cams' website that says that GM used two types of phasers for two different cam cores on the 07-08s, and if you have the wrong phaser/cam core, your cam timing will be off by 13 degrees!!
So, at the end of the day, I would do the VVT delete, simply because its one less thing to worry about and tune for, and get a cam from a manfacturer that can tell you how to tune for that particular cam. Maybe give Comp a call, they have a cam for whatever you need. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Although with 220 deg intake duration and no overlap, in theory, my cam should idle smooth, but it is still pretty choppy at idle, even with the Blackbear tune, which I have to say idles pretty decent.
AND I've just found an tech article on Comp Cams' website that says that GM used two types of phasers for two different cam cores on the 07-08s, and if you have the wrong phaser/cam core, your cam timing will be off by 13 degrees!!
So, at the end of the day, I would do the VVT delete, simply because its one less thing to worry about and tune for, and get a cam from a manfacturer that can tell you how to tune for that particular cam. Maybe give Comp a call, they have a cam for whatever you need. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
thanx to you.how about this grind..it did alot with a healthy lq4 and bolt ons:
224-230, .58x on both,and 114 lsa i think
Here's a link to a run a while back without nitrous. Was right after I installed a "Slowmaster" muffler that killed the ET. It went from running a best of 8.52 (without N2O) to a 8.96!
If you turn the volume up before the run, you can hear how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIq0ysKUQJU
If you turn the volume up before the run, you can hear how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIq0ysKUQJU
#10
[QUOTE=sand man;4552272]so vvt is 100% of the table
thanx to you.
how about this grind..it did alot with a healthy lq4 and bolt ons:
224-230, .58x on both,and 114 lsa i think
That sounds like a decent cam for an LQ4, which I assume had the usual "cathedral" port (LS1,LS2 LQ4) heads?
However, most cam manufacturers and LSX engine builders recommend that on the L92/LS3 rectangular port heads you should have at least 10-14 degrees split between the intake and exhaust (so a cam with 224 intake duration would have like 234 to 238 degrees on the exhaust). I would recomend that you buy a Comp or Lunati cam, if you want something bigger than what was in the GMHT test. However, I think with the stock heads, the biggest Lunati grind (233/245, 0.578/0.598, 115 LSA)that made 552HP in the GMHT test is probably the best way to go.
thanx to you.how about this grind..it did alot with a healthy lq4 and bolt ons:
224-230, .58x on both,and 114 lsa i think
That sounds like a decent cam for an LQ4, which I assume had the usual "cathedral" port (LS1,LS2 LQ4) heads?
However, most cam manufacturers and LSX engine builders recommend that on the L92/LS3 rectangular port heads you should have at least 10-14 degrees split between the intake and exhaust (so a cam with 224 intake duration would have like 234 to 238 degrees on the exhaust). I would recomend that you buy a Comp or Lunati cam, if you want something bigger than what was in the GMHT test. However, I think with the stock heads, the biggest Lunati grind (233/245, 0.578/0.598, 115 LSA)that made 552HP in the GMHT test is probably the best way to go.


