What you need to know before buying Speed "Engineering" headers
07-24-2018, 10:53 PM
#21
I had Speed Engineering on an FBody and they rubbed multiple places and also leaked very badly....never again....while the savings over the big name brands was nice, hearing the headers contact the frame every time I accelerated was not worth the savings....since Ive had 2 sets of ARH headers and currently a set of Kooks on a couple different vehicles, they were far away 10X the quality of the Speed "Engineering", aka chinese garbage, both ARH and Kooks had PERFECT clearance everywhere and ZERO leaks, like everything else in life you get what you pay for....
08-25-2018, 05:19 PM
#22
Just some recent thoughts. While I wish these headers had a different drivers O2 location, you still can't discount issues caused by old, worn, or broken engine mounts. On the gmt900 platform they're easily overpowered by the 5.3. The 6.2 chews em up and spits them out. There are tons of posts on dead mounts. They're fluid filled which weakens them.
My 1 year old replacement drivers mount was killed. Tension ripped it apart resulting in over compression of the passenger mount. These issues cause drivers O2 hitting the body and the passenger header hitting the starter wire.
At the very least replace both oem mounts when one goes bad. I suspect that's why my drivers side lasted a year after replacement. :-(
H3 mounts are solid rubber and seem to last longer. I personally went with the "**** you" solution and went with poly mounts. Not as harsh as solid metal mounts but should be strong and transmit a little less vibration. Time will tell.
Drivers side.
Passenger side over compressed.
Passenger header hitting starter wire.
Hacked up drivers O2 and dented body.
Drivers AFP poly mount.
Passenger AFP poly mount.
My 1 year old replacement drivers mount was killed. Tension ripped it apart resulting in over compression of the passenger mount. These issues cause drivers O2 hitting the body and the passenger header hitting the starter wire.
At the very least replace both oem mounts when one goes bad. I suspect that's why my drivers side lasted a year after replacement. :-(
H3 mounts are solid rubber and seem to last longer. I personally went with the "**** you" solution and went with poly mounts. Not as harsh as solid metal mounts but should be strong and transmit a little less vibration. Time will tell.
Drivers side.
Passenger side over compressed.
Passenger header hitting starter wire.
Hacked up drivers O2 and dented body.
Drivers AFP poly mount.
Passenger AFP poly mount.
09-14-2018, 11:29 PM
#27
We are getting hit by the left overs of the hurricane on Monday. So I figured I'd get the Yukon back on the road.
I feel just a bit more vibration with the poly mounts on startup. Nothing too distracting. The bad oem mounts had their own shakes and rumbles I no longer feel.
https://youtu.be/ljjJDNFuJGw
I feel just a bit more vibration with the poly mounts on startup. Nothing too distracting. The bad oem mounts had their own shakes and rumbles I no longer feel.
https://youtu.be/ljjJDNFuJGw
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