Steering wheel noise really odd...
#11
there is no thump or knock just the rubbing noise
also I know its not the steering shaft, I have had that one on my 05' and 07' classic so I know what that feels like and its not that
also I know its not the steering shaft, I have had that one on my 05' and 07' classic so I know what that feels like and its not that
#12
when ever you get this figured out, let use know what fixes it, my truck is making the same exact noise and has been for some time now. bugs the **** out of me, and i would like to try and fix it but have no clue where to start.
#14
Thanks for making the videos with the precise noise. My 2008 Silverado makes that exact same noise.
As you know, it is NOT the rack or shaft bumping problem. It doesn't seem to be the Clockspring either.
Clockspring: I bought a ClockSpring to replace, thinking that was the problem. After removing the Clockspring today, the noise was quieter but still was there. It appears to be the bearing which is part of the Tilt Steering Wheel Assembly. I can see ball bearings moving in a plastic race (junk) located just behind the Clockspring.
What I tried: I didn't replace the Clockspring, because it didn't seem to be the source of the noise. I put a few drops of 3&1 Oil on the bearing and about 6 inches further down the shaft where there was access from above. I don't think either helped much. After putting everything back together the noise was back and loud, like before taking it apart.
Clue: When using the Tilt Wheel Lever to move the steering column up/down to get access, I noticed the steering column would snap upwards quickly without the weight of the Steering Wheel and Air Bag to weight it down. The Steering Wheel and Air Bag are significant weight.
What I think: I think the bearing in the Tilt Wheel Assembly is bad and the weight of the steering wheel has worn the cheap plastic bearing race. The noise is louder when the extra weight of the cantilevered Steering Wheel is loading the bearing.
I didn't see how to remove and replace that bearing. I may tear it apart tomorrow to look again.
PART 1
Last edited by 2008silverado; Oct 12, 2014 at 04:29 AM.
#15
My 04 cavalier made that noise...I was told by a friend ( mechanic and cavalier junkie)...dont ask.....that there was a seal under the wheel around the steering shaft that got dry over time. It requires removal of the wheel and applying lube to the seal...usually dow corning 55 o-ring lube...
I found it would get better if you squirt vinyl dressing between the wheel and the fixed part of the column. not totally go away, but be bearable. You can give it a try to see if it gets better, very cheap diagnosis. You just spray a few shots between there while spinning the wheel back and forth.
I used armorall, or something of the like. Tire dressing was best, but it makes a mess.
I found it would get better if you squirt vinyl dressing between the wheel and the fixed part of the column. not totally go away, but be bearable. You can give it a try to see if it gets better, very cheap diagnosis. You just spray a few shots between there while spinning the wheel back and forth.
I used armorall, or something of the like. Tire dressing was best, but it makes a mess.
#16
Part 2
I tore my steering column (2008 Silverado) apart again. (See 2nd post above for Part 1)
It looks like this with the steering wheel and covers removed. Spraying lub inside won't fix anything, but may cause several other problems.

After removing the clockspring, keyswitch assembly, turn signal assembly, ... it looks like this.

From another angle, these are the parts to be remove to get access to the top bearing.

The "Heavy Spring" is the problem now. It requires a special puller which will allow access to the "Spring Clip" while the puller is in place. I need to make a puller before going further.

In fact, maybe the "Heavy Spring" is jamming the inner bearing race into the bearing ***** TOO HARD and damaging the bearing!
I tore my steering column (2008 Silverado) apart again. (See 2nd post above for Part 1)
It looks like this with the steering wheel and covers removed. Spraying lub inside won't fix anything, but may cause several other problems.

After removing the clockspring, keyswitch assembly, turn signal assembly, ... it looks like this.

From another angle, these are the parts to be remove to get access to the top bearing.

The "Heavy Spring" is the problem now. It requires a special puller which will allow access to the "Spring Clip" while the puller is in place. I need to make a puller before going further.

In fact, maybe the "Heavy Spring" is jamming the inner bearing race into the bearing ***** TOO HARD and damaging the bearing!
Last edited by 2008silverado; Oct 12, 2014 at 04:37 AM.
#19
I didn't have a screwdriver handy, so I used a stethoscope instead.
Yes, it seemed to be coming from the bearing, which contacts both the steering shaft and the top column housing.
(SPOILER: Replacement of the bearing described below had no effect on the noise. You can skip the next 5 paragraphs if you want.)

So, I bought a $5 bearing (that costs $62 because it is used on a GM vehicle) and tore the steering column apart again.
I used notched and filed short sections of 3/4 inch PVC as a compression tool to release the snap ring held under pressure by the heavy spring (in photos above). The snap ring is just bent wire, without eyes for a releasing tool. Instead I had to simultaneously 1) jam 3 small Scratch Awls into the steering shaft splines to expand the snap ring, while 2) releasing the PVC pressure which was held by the steering wheel nut and a spare washer.
It took 4 hands to hold all the tools above, while unscrewing the nut. Each time you pass a circular depression in the steering shaft, you have to repeat the process. I think I used 3 PVC lengths.

When the spring pressure and bearing retainer are removed, the steering shaft droops from the tilt wheel universals and lays on the inner race of the bearing.
After getting to the bearing, I realized there was no good way for me the dig the hardened steel Bearing Outer Race out of the aluminum column housing. I expected it would just pop out, but it was pressed in and wouldn't budge. The steering shaft was limp and not useful to center a puller. I considered using a Dremel Tool to cut relief through the bearing race, but surrendered instead.
I decided instead to just replace the bearing ***** and inter-race from the $62 GM replacement bearing. Surely that would provide some improvement.
After reassembly, the noise was UNCHANGED as far as I could tell. The noise is generally quieter when the cab is cool and the noise seemed to be at the typical "cool" level.
The next assembly down the shaft is the Tilt Wheel Universals, but I'm not going there.
Instead, I removed the top and bottom steering column covers and put some sound dampening foam anywhere that it wouldn't interfere with moving parts of the steering and gear-shift assembly.
I can still hear the sound, but I guess I'll live with it at the present level. POS
.
Yes, it seemed to be coming from the bearing, which contacts both the steering shaft and the top column housing.
(SPOILER: Replacement of the bearing described below had no effect on the noise. You can skip the next 5 paragraphs if you want.)

So, I bought a $5 bearing (that costs $62 because it is used on a GM vehicle) and tore the steering column apart again.
I used notched and filed short sections of 3/4 inch PVC as a compression tool to release the snap ring held under pressure by the heavy spring (in photos above). The snap ring is just bent wire, without eyes for a releasing tool. Instead I had to simultaneously 1) jam 3 small Scratch Awls into the steering shaft splines to expand the snap ring, while 2) releasing the PVC pressure which was held by the steering wheel nut and a spare washer.
It took 4 hands to hold all the tools above, while unscrewing the nut. Each time you pass a circular depression in the steering shaft, you have to repeat the process. I think I used 3 PVC lengths.

When the spring pressure and bearing retainer are removed, the steering shaft droops from the tilt wheel universals and lays on the inner race of the bearing.
After getting to the bearing, I realized there was no good way for me the dig the hardened steel Bearing Outer Race out of the aluminum column housing. I expected it would just pop out, but it was pressed in and wouldn't budge. The steering shaft was limp and not useful to center a puller. I considered using a Dremel Tool to cut relief through the bearing race, but surrendered instead.
I decided instead to just replace the bearing ***** and inter-race from the $62 GM replacement bearing. Surely that would provide some improvement.
After reassembly, the noise was UNCHANGED as far as I could tell. The noise is generally quieter when the cab is cool and the noise seemed to be at the typical "cool" level.
The next assembly down the shaft is the Tilt Wheel Universals, but I'm not going there.
Instead, I removed the top and bottom steering column covers and put some sound dampening foam anywhere that it wouldn't interfere with moving parts of the steering and gear-shift assembly.
I can still hear the sound, but I guess I'll live with it at the present level. POS
.
Last edited by 2008silverado; Oct 17, 2014 at 03:01 PM.
#20
Congratulations.
Just trying to help dick wad...not everyone has a bunch of useless tools laying around
At lease a screwdriver can do two jobs.
Glad to see it helped so much too.
And for the record, the "heavy spring" you call it, that's the upper bearing preload spring. Its in all tilt columns to provide a steady pre-load on the shaft bearing in all positions of the steering wheel. Without it the steering column would flop or bind depending on the position of the tilt.
Think someone with a stethoscope would know that.
Dick

PS: Did you grease the bearing and race with the proper grease?


