Area47

not a problem man. like i said, you keep thinking of things that need to be tweaked and such. i will keep plugging away at it.

This is the biggest issue i run into with dyno tunes. not enough time with the car/truck.

Auburn247

iTrader: (3)

I have the same converter from Circle D sitting in my garage waiting to install. After reading this thread may consider a different converter because I tow a camper and a boat along with it being my dd. Now not sure which way to go thanks for sharing your experiences.

Josh154

What's a more apropriate stall for some light towing and daily? I will most likely do a 216/220 vvt cam with a l76. I tow a 7x16 around 5-7k maybe once a week. Truck will see drag strip maybe twice a year. Also are you guys all running a single disc or triple disc?

Area47

it really comes down to the cam choice. KC kid could get away with a stock stall in his due to the cam choice.

Josh154

Would a 2600-2800 be to tight for a 216/220?

Auburn247

iTrader: (3)

Wondering the same thing currently have the 3000-3200 but don't want it to be to loose. My cam choice is the 216/220 or custom grind talking with tsp now about a custom grind

Also talking to Chris from circle d and says the 3000-3200 will still be a tight converter with 6000lbs towing capacity.

KC_kid

iTrader: (5)

Chris told me the same thing, 3000 would be tight. In my experience it wasn't, it slipped to 2500 under normal driving, before final tuning tweeks. After tuning and adjusting lockup, I would say that it now performs pretty much better. What I can't answer is if all of that is due to tuning or the converter... I probably would go with the 2600-2800 if I were to do it again, with hindsight, but 3000-3200 seems to be much more popular and probably better for a 216-220 cam if I had to guess. But don't listen to me because I have very limited experience, quite honestly. This is my first experience, so extremely limited here and I don't want to steer you wrong.

The best advice I have read and that I should have done but didn't is to drive a stalled truck to get a feel for it. My definition of "good" and "drives stock" and "too loose" is likely much different than yours and certainly the next guy.

I will also say that after tuning tweeks, I am enjoying this stall MUCH more and I can keep it from stalling up pretty easy with a "normal" throttle foot.

NKPPhil

That really is good advice. Thanks for the report, and glad to know you're enjoying your truck!

KC_kid

iTrader: (5)

Update to this because I think it's worth saying. The shop must have done a crap job installing my headers and y-pipe. I blew out a donut gasket at the collector so I replaced them both gaskets. What I discovered was that the collector bolts where barely finger tight on both sides, for sure causing them to leak. This truck sounds way quieter now when driving, under all conditions. It also has a drastic drivability difference, including stall speed, low speed power, and hwy fuel mileage. The collector leak was likely showing a slight lean condition at the O2 even though it wasn't real, therefore causing me to run rich. The stall reacts different.. it is much tighter now with low speed stall and actually drives much closer to stock then it has since it was installed, over 5 years ago. Pretty crazy what a tiny leak at a header collector can do to an EFI engine.

Even worse, about 9 months after my cam install (same shop, same time as headers) I had an oil leak. It was determined that the oil pan bolts were only finger tight...

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

I replaced the collector gaskets with all metal reusable because I kept blowing them out.

The oil pan bolts get torqued to 18ft-lb and the 2 long bolts are torqued to 108in-lb.

It sounds like a **** show.