GMT900 Hydroboost Conversion How-to
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GMT900 Hydroboost Conversion How-to
Hello Friends, First of all, I'm not used on hard braking, you should have seen me braking all the way to work. Guys with vacuum, trust me trash it you will thank me later. Was running on 9 in/vac @ idle wth ?
(¼) Pedal travel = Nice Bite.
(½) Pedal travel = omg-abs-skid.
You won't need a full pedal anymore. "Broblem" is check brake system on message console, no lights what so ever, any electrician please chime in.
But anyways, I would like to thank Pl4yboy and Robert91RS.
Got my whole unit from a scrap yard from Maine for $290 shipped, 2008 40~k miles wrecked express van.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Locate the bolts on the firewall, knee bolster + bolts are going to be P.I.T.A., stupid loctite.
(1) = Bolts
(2) = Brake lights sensor.
3. Carefully disconnect the brake pedal light sensor, Loosen the bolt and remove it. Then unbolt the whole brake pedal.
Okay, got a slight problem lol.
The hydroboost seem to have a different pattern.
Didn't want to drill the firewall up, sooo...
I re-welded the bolts up to match the existing one. Thanks GM.
After re-locating the bolts.
5. Get a power steering removal kit / installation kit for $30, don't use air tools on this lol. Loosen the drive belt, remove the pulley, remove the 3 bolts (front) 1 bolt (back). straight forward.
6. Connect the high pressure line from pump to booster, low pressure line from booster to PS pump.
7. Remove the clip + bolt attaching 2 lines, one coming from the PS cooler, one from PS pump.
You could splice this but I preferred to go with a hydraulic hose.
^ Ryan @ Nitrous Express could make you one.
I made a small illustration on how to connect the other high pressure line.
(1) Cut the end of the steel line leaving the Hydro.
(2) Cut the end of the steel line going to the PS gear box.
(3) Hydraulic press the two ends with a 3/8" line IIRC.
(4) Optional, you could add fittings to adjust the hose path and weld them to the lines.
½ line, 4,000 psi burst point.
8. Broblem? No Broblem! Found out my master cylinder lines are bigger for some reason. 2x Custom male to female fitting for $20.
9. Bleed PS, Bleed brakes.
10. Attach and install everything else including the pedal lol, CHECK FOR LEAKS. Enjoy your beer.
Simple and straight forward, any questions hit me up.
(¼) Pedal travel = Nice Bite.
(½) Pedal travel = omg-abs-skid.
You won't need a full pedal anymore. "Broblem" is check brake system on message console, no lights what so ever, any electrician please chime in.
But anyways, I would like to thank Pl4yboy and Robert91RS.
Got my whole unit from a scrap yard from Maine for $290 shipped, 2008 40~k miles wrecked express van.
- Booster# 20940395
- P/S Pump# 20756715 (has an extra return port)
- P/S Hose# 15295853 (pump to booster)
- P/S Hose# 15804952 (booster return to pump)
- P/S Hose# 15295840 (booster to gear)
- Pedal# 15906961 (non adjustable)
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Locate the bolts on the firewall, knee bolster + bolts are going to be P.I.T.A., stupid loctite.
(1) = Bolts
(2) = Brake lights sensor.
3. Carefully disconnect the brake pedal light sensor, Loosen the bolt and remove it. Then unbolt the whole brake pedal.
Okay, got a slight problem lol.
The hydroboost seem to have a different pattern.
Didn't want to drill the firewall up, sooo...
I re-welded the bolts up to match the existing one. Thanks GM.
After re-locating the bolts.
5. Get a power steering removal kit / installation kit for $30, don't use air tools on this lol. Loosen the drive belt, remove the pulley, remove the 3 bolts (front) 1 bolt (back). straight forward.
6. Connect the high pressure line from pump to booster, low pressure line from booster to PS pump.
7. Remove the clip + bolt attaching 2 lines, one coming from the PS cooler, one from PS pump.
You could splice this but I preferred to go with a hydraulic hose.
^ Ryan @ Nitrous Express could make you one.
I made a small illustration on how to connect the other high pressure line.
(1) Cut the end of the steel line leaving the Hydro.
(2) Cut the end of the steel line going to the PS gear box.
(3) Hydraulic press the two ends with a 3/8" line IIRC.
(4) Optional, you could add fittings to adjust the hose path and weld them to the lines.
½ line, 4,000 psi burst point.
8. Broblem? No Broblem! Found out my master cylinder lines are bigger for some reason. 2x Custom male to female fitting for $20.
9. Bleed PS, Bleed brakes.
10. Attach and install everything else including the pedal lol, CHECK FOR LEAKS. Enjoy your beer.
Simple and straight forward, any questions hit me up.
Last edited by Foxxer; 03-17-2013 at 11:21 AM.
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You could ask your local metal workshop for the adapter, It was done with a lathe I believe.
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#8
Custm2500's Rude Friend
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It's also important to note he used the set up from a Van. There is often small differences between a Van and a Truck platform.
It's also important to note you can sometimes reuse your existing Master Cylinder. The bolt spacing on the end of the hydroboost will determine that.
#10
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Will this cause issues with my factory trailer brake controller? I've heard that the trucks with factory trailer brake controllers have option-specific master cylinders I believe.