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09 CCSB 4x4 stall converter install

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Old 07-13-2017, 09:28 PM   #1
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Default 09 CCSB 4x4 stall converter install

Never pulled a transfer case or transmission before. Thought I would post up my progress on stall converter installation. forgive me if I am doing it all wrong or my terminology is incorrect.

remove 4 11mm bolts at the rear of the driveshaft



With the 4 bolts and 2 caps removed pry the driveshaft forward to free the u joint. Careful not to let the caps fall off and loose the needle bearing. Just put a piece of tape over them.





At the front of the driveshaft the yoke will just slide out of the transfer case. There will be a small amount of transmission fluid that will come out when the yoke is pulled free. Have a pan ready. Set driveshaft aside.





Remove the 4 15mm bolts from the skid plate and set it aside.



Remove the 4 11mm bolts from the front of the front driveshaft. Then pry it toward the rear of the truck to free it. My truck has a clip holding the 2 caps on so no need to tape them.





At the transfer case end of the front driveshaft remove the crimp band from the boot and now the shaft will slide out of the transfer case. It will have to sit there until you remove the cross member.





Place a jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the cross member supporting the transmission. There are 4 21mm nuts and bolts. Also there are 2 15mm nuts that need to be removed from the mount to allow the cross member to drop. You will now be able to remove the front driveshaft as well. With the cross member out of the way remove the mount from the transfer case. 2 15mm bolts.









Now remove the wire connectors, clips, and vent tube. There are 3 wires connectors, 2 clips holing the wires to the transfer case and 1 vent tube.





Now remove the 6 15mm nuts holding the transfer case to the transmission. On a crew cab there is nothing under the transfer case supporting it so don't crush your head. It is a lot easier to remove the top and side bolts with a 1/4 inch ratchet or a short 15mm wrench. Use a jack to support the transfercase and slide it free from the transmission. I was nervous doing this because I had no idea how heavy it would be. Turns out its not that heavy pretty easy to do by yourself.









That's as far as I got today. I will hopefully get the transmission out tomorrow. Now have a couple beers while posting a thread.

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Old 07-13-2017, 10:17 PM   #2
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That sonnax yoke stop the clunk clunk noises?
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:45 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ezdaar View Post
That sonnax yoke stop the clunk clunk noises?
No I still have clunking. I am not %100 sure its the driveshaft making the noise. Thats next on my list to figure out.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:00 AM   #4
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Bud Light is NOT a beer!



Great thread. I love these types of posts. Git-R-Done!
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:22 AM   #5
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Awesome, ill be doing mine soon, thanks for the thread, def will come in handy.
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Bud Light is NOT a beer!


!
Beer Snob LOL
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:54 PM   #7
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Remove the starter 2 13mm bolts and dust shield 1 10mm bolt.





Remove 3 15mm flywheel to converter bolts. Always rotate the engine Clockwise to access the bolts. To brake them loose I remove the plastic engine cover so I can have a ratchet on the crank pulley to keep engine from rotating and one on the converter bolt.





Remove the shift linkage 1 15mm bolt 2 T40 torques, heat shield (forgot the bolt size pretty sure it was 2 10mm bolts), and wire connector. Did not get a pic of the shield and wire connector.



Remove bracket holding vent tube and fuel lines 1 10mm bolt. Also remove the cooler line from the transmission I think it was 1 13mm bolt.





In my case I had to remove the exhaust crossover pipe for turbo setup.

Now its time to remove the bellhousing bolts 8 15mm bolts. Make sure transmission and engine are supported. These are all easy to get to except the top one its a PITA. Get a 24" extension and a swivel attachment it will make this a lot easier. The upper left side bolt/stud has a 13mm nut that needs to be removed first that is holding a fuel line bracket. The upper right side bolt/stud has a 13mm nut holing your dipstick tube bracket. The upper center bolt/stud also has a 13mm nut holding vent tube bracket. With the 3 nuts and brackets out of the way you can now remove the 15mm bolts. With all the bolts removed double and triple check nothing is still attached. You can now separate the transmission from the engine. A couple good kicks and it will come free from the dowels. Work the dipstick out as you lower the transmission don't loose the seal. I just lowered the trans pulled out the old converter and put the new one in while under the truck. In my case 1/2 quart of trans fluid was added to the converter before installing. Make sure it is seated all the way. Should have 2 distinct clicks. Rotate it and it pops in once continue rotating and it will slip in the rest of the way. I measured the distance from the bellhousing to converter before I removed the old one so I could make sure the new converter was all the way seated. Put it all back together don't forget to add trans fluid.





Also remember this is just a rough guide of how I did it. You do not have to remove the transfer case I just think its easier. I also have been drinking while typing this up LOL! So don't listen to a thing I say.


Last edited by crashmymax; 07-19-2017 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:06 PM   #8
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Nice write up! Thanks!

What converter did you go with and what mods to the truck?
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:02 AM   #9
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Nice write up! Thanks!

What converter did you go with and what mods to the truck?
Mods are in my signature. I went with a circle D 2800 triple disc. Still deciding if I like having the stall in my daily driver. Need more drive time to decide.
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Old 07-20-2017, 08:33 AM   #10
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Why should you turn the engine clockwise only? Just curious
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