1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

The break system has no idea if you have drums or disk.
the gear ratio and tire size are programmed and when it detects error above the allowable limits it sets a code.

Various things use those values for calculations including the ABS system, transmission and so on.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Good to know then, I'll cross my fingers that goes away once those values are changed.

I think this thread is getting wayyyy off topic, even I'm guilty right now. I'm not trying to make a stupid fast truck, but I want it to have more get up and go then it currently has. Here I am though inquiring which style blowers are going used for $2500 and looking at beefing up the trans...

I think maybe I'll just get a tune for it after I do the motor mounts. The rockers can sit on a shelf, and I'll look for a 09+ 5.3/6l80e combo down the road... I'm really trying to keep the truck fairly simple, I don't think I want to go the forced induction route. I've currently got some Fbody projects, one I have the D1SC for (94 Z28, the 95 convertible "parts car" also came with a Golen 383, along with the procharger) and an 87 IROC that will get a chinese turbo after the LT1 swap (car already has a t56 swap, and a boost ready motor is coming out of my 94 Z28). So yeah not looking to go nuts with the truck haha.

97_ek

iTrader: (4)

I'll second the recommendation for the Atomic Fab and Performance poly motor mounts. They are well-built, and they fell right into place when I swapped my 6.0 in recently.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Centrifugal blowers are generally the cheapest, they are also the easiest on the drivetrain. They make an NA power curve, just a lot more of it. Ive made 477 through my 60e with a tune and shift kit. Its not going to last much longer, and I never expected it to, but so far it still moves the truck.

Roots blowers provide the best off idle torque, nice to get a truck/trailer moving but also the hardest on the trans

Turbos make the best ultimate power. Large enough turbo will act NA during cruise and off idle situations, but when she lights; hang on.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

I can help you with both motor mounts and a tune as mentioned

Go with a blower for more power, and you can always pulley it down and use it on a bigger engine later. I ran a tvs1900 on a 408 for a time, did great.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

until the bearings took a ****.

I am a huge fan of blowers, but anything is better than nothing

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

So... still torn between poly or solid. I've read in a few places where people with solid said they didn't notice any more vibration. Input?

Yeah I'm just thinking no blower. Will probably just go 5.3/6l80 down the road if I can find a pullout with motor, pcm, wire harness and trans together. I'm thinking I'll just be patient. I read somewhere it was changed from 24x to 58x when they went to the 6l80e over the 4l60e???

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Poly. Not worth risking breaking the block

58x switch happened in 07 for trucks. Earlier for LS2 GTOs

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Both will be very strong, but the polys will be more forgiving. In regards to vibration, as long as the engine is healthy and there are no issues extra vibration will be minimum. Most report the only time they can tell is at a cold start idle, the rest of the time no difference. If you have an engine issue (misfire, out of balance, etc.) then yes it will be more apparently because the poly or solids are not near as forgiving as the stock mounts.

The stock mounts are fluid filled mainly to deal with the DOD activation so the passengers dont notice it as much.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Is this a concern for an iron block???