hahaha lmfao I LIKE YOUR quote at the bottom

"Nitrous is like a hot chick with STDs you know you wanna hit it, but you dont want to face the consequences"

 

I just went to Quaker State synthetic 10-30. I normally use Mobil 1. Hell for $28.00 I wasn't going to complain. While getting my windows tinted at a frinds shop and asked how much they charge for an oil change ($28), I told them I use synthetic and they said it's $28.00 anyways, now I don't know if they screwed up or just gave me a good deal. I am not asking, but I'll keep going back everytime with those prices. Hell, I was paying $70+ at another place.

 

damn jorge thats a hell of a deal...where is the shop located?

 

i don't need to go taking sides with mobile 1 but does anyone know if the new lower zinc formula is going to cause problems? i'm sure that when it comes to oil, the more zinc can't simply equate to better. otherwise we'd all be looking for pure zinc to pour in our engines!

 

alright so to prevent the blind leading the blind here i've dug up some quick facts:

"% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling."

from http://mcgeerf.tripod.com/americansy...coil/id17.html

"However - and this is the important part to remember - available research shows that more zinc does not give you more protection, it merely prolongs the protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high or extended. So unless you plan on spending a couple of hours dragging your knee at Laguna Seca, adding extra zinc compounds to your oil is usually a waste. Also, keep in mind that high zinc content can lead to deposit formation on your valves, and spark plug fouling."

from http://www.nooilchange.com/amsoil/sy...s/snakeoil.htm


just some food for thought guys, i'm not saying its good, im just saying lets not jump ship if the one your on isn't sinking!

 

Some good info allenmehrer Seems like that most of us will be fine with the changes for our applications. I think that if and when I ever get around to building a new mill though, I'll use something with less molybdenum for the break in process, then maybe switch to Mobil 1 or Amsoil at 1K.

 

7 mile line going to La Joya in front of a new Jr. High they are building.

 

I run amsoil and once a year change my oil. I broke my engine in on amsoil and when I pulled my cam at 45,000 it looked perfect. I've aslo been running it in my race bike and have had nothing but good luck. IMO the extra money is worth it.

 

What about Havoline synthetic?