Hahah...the 2 were actually out of alignement and I spend a few hrs measuring and matching the angles and curves to get them close as I could.

 

There are drip pans that fit underneath and mount up to the hood ribs. I didn't post pix as they sent me two of the same side...new one coming. The water drains off to the front center between the motor and the fans. I'm tooling around with altering the water's path...but that'll be a work in process I think and they'll get painted last. I bot some plastic/nylon screws and washers to mount them up and they're fiberglass & gelcoat so easy enuf to alter...R/

 

I'd still like to see this drip pan. Will it contact Radix? Or is it more low profile?

 

I'll try and take some pix. They are retangular shaped fiberglass pans w/ raised pads at the ribs contact points - just basic stuff that I will lift as far off the hood as I can using plastic spacers. Meacham tells me that each add'tl 1/16th adds significantly to flow chars. They'll def clear in as-is form, but not sure how much more space I have...I'll want to keep plenty of flow across the Maggie. I'm comfortable Meacham did their air flow homework on the exterior, but theirs was a turbo app and had a little more clearance with the factory manifold. Next step: place water trays, drill air holes in hood, grind/sand blast paint off hood for glue, finish sand & prime extractors, Glue & assemble, final body work & paint (maybe something ghosty)
On vaca for a week, so progress will be slow from here once I return to work.

 

That'd be cool, thanks. I would try to avoid sandblasting. Got a D/A? I'd use a D/A. Do what's necessary to get filler or whatnot to adhere.
Looks like your Avy is black, or at least Tdrumm's hood is. Some ghost flames would be cool. Even a traditional flame in say, yellow or silver. Other colors come to mind too, esp. if truck is black. It opens up a whole plethora of colors.

 

If it was black I'd take the clear coat down to satin and murder it! Its dark grey metallic...almost looks deep greenish....I think a ghost green design of some sort that only shows at certain angles or sunlite wud look cool...R/
Whats a D/A?
I like the idea of blasting cause I can get a straight .5-1" line just where I need it...that avoids lots of body work later...

 

any updates

 

At the beach this week...

 

D/A is short for Dual Action sander. Most body guys use em. They have 2 ways they sand on the same unit. I believe the correct terms are random & orbital, I could be wrong. I know what it does for me. Simply put #1 is random sanding circles or, #2 would be sanding circles that stay within itself, more like a grinder/ polisher.

Blasting creates minor pits in metal. To some extent it would depend on blasting media since some cause no "damage". Some media forms are more aggressive than others. And unless you prime surface quickly after blastin, tends to surface rust fast. While those could be minor problems in some people's eyes, what's worse is if sand gets in lil crevices. Sand gets everywhere & u gotta be extremely thorough in cleaning out media afterward. It manages to work their way into the air or get trapped in/on vehicle & your body/clothing, tumble loose into air just to ruin a nice paint job.
A clean job doesn't need to remove defects like dirt nibs/ dust just wet sand, wheel, & enjoy. Next to impossible sometimes, but preventative steps help. Cleanliness is everything in paint.

 

I have a random orbit, but the reason I was thinking blasting was the answer is that I only need to take it down to metal where I'll be glueing the extractors on. So, a way to take the paint off on a thin strip that matches the outline of my extractors. Sanding will mean more work but ultimately might be the simplest way. U can spray an anti corrosion treatment on the bare metal if you dont plan to paint immediately. Key is to leave as little bare metal UNDER the extractor as possible as thats gonna be hard to treat/paint to prevent rust...R/