He wants it at operating temps. I will mention that if we can’t get it correct.
When I took mine out month ago it would barely stay running between shifts when I push in on the clutch, in turn TB blade shuts since I let off the gas. Hopefully get it corrected though. Could have been due to my super small filter 😂

 

This should probably go under the tuning section but. I am working the idle now everything is set. I understand the values I need to hit but having hard time getting there. If I open the set screw to reach .5 or .6 tps voltage that’s too much air and IAC is 0. If I close the blade almost all the way my IAC bounces around 0 to 30 but my voltage is low. I did end up drilling a small hole maybe 11/64 in size which helped but still can’t find happy medium. I’m not sure how important tps voltage is in relation to IAC counts

 

I really like the Nick Williams TB's.

 

I had to do some trickery with my PTM95. Opening the blade enough to get good IAC counts put the TPS voltage out of idle range (high). Closing the blade to get in TPS idle range, IAC counts were too high and I could not get good throttle follower recovery when hot. Enlarging the hole slightly (don't remember the exact size) got both where they needed to be.
In your case, sounds like you are trying to acquire a high TPS idle voltage. Dial in the IAC counts and keep TPS voltage below the threshold to enter idle parameters. If you can't dial in the IAC without exceeding TPS idle threshold, that's where drilling holes and slotting TPS sensors comes in.

 

Did some more trial and error this evening. Cold start my truck will turn over but die with the blade closed. If I cracked the blade like 1 percent it will start immediately. However IAC counts are zero. Once the truck is warmed I can close the blade and it will start immediately. Even with that blade shut IAC go down to zero. Maybe too big of a hole? For this engine and a blower it’s crazy a 11/64 hole would be too much.
Probably just weld this hole and start over again with no hole.

 

My opinion: You're chasing your tail trying to find the magic spot where the IAC counts are within range and the TPS voltage is right. slot the TPS, adjust it to be within range and find your blade position that gives the IAC counts that you desire. I dont think the TPS voltage directly correlates to your IAC counts, but the sensor is feeding info to a computer that could be altering several other areas of the tune.

Also my opinion: listen to pat g over me LOL. I'm just saying what worked for me in the past. Pat may have a better method nearly 20 years after my issues.

I havent paid attention to how a IAC behaves from a cold start (or i don't remember). It may be normal for it to be completely closed for a cold start and slowly open up as the engine temp increases. kind of like it is imitating a choke on a small engine to restrict idle air and richen the combustion for easier cold starts. I could be 1000% off base. It's a theory i guess. less air at cold start up would mean you use less fuel by not having to throw as much fuel to achieve a richer cold start.

 

So riddle me this, and I am sure it needs to be moved either way because some stock TB have the hole at the bottom plus everyone does it. My dumbass drilled it up top for some reason. Does it make that big of a difference? Maybe closer to the IAC sensor.

 

Can you tell what the timing is doing when the IAC bounces between 0 and 30? I think i remember part of my issue was the idle timing was jumping around pretty aggressively. We cleaned up the idle timing (basically locked the timing at idle) and it cleaned up a ton of drivability issues. that particular combo was a 5.7 with a pretty large cam, fast 90mm intake with a nick williams 90mm. That combo kicked our *** for a while LOL.

 

I wouldnt worry about the hole position being up top. Not sure why it is always at the bottom. It lets the same amount of air in from the top and bottom. If it really bothers you, flip the blade around and be the one and only with a WWZ01 throttle body

 

Pat sent me a new tune file that should slow the IAC movement. After I described what was happening. I can do a compare tomorrow and see what he changed. Might be what you suggested. I told him I really wanted to get idle stable because when I drive and shift it almost dies because it’s hunting idle rpm. Common issue with manual setups. I will flip the blade, why not 😆
The tps voltage I am not concerned anymore I think I got caught up reading too many forum posts and not just doing what my tuner wants.