Battery relocate without a fuel cell
09-11-2012, 07:29 PM
#31
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I think as long as they can see/get to the cut off its fine. I think Im going to just do a push pull cutoff on mine and unthread the rod when Im not at the track.
09-11-2012, 10:47 PM
#33
[QUOTE=smokeshow;4960524]That Sonoma is really cool, I might do that. NHRA reg says you have to have a battery cut off switch accessible from the rearmost exterior of the vehicle. Does anyone know if that means visible from the outside, or can it be obscured, out of sight? Still easy to get to, but not easy to see..
Gavin, as to the one BMR sells for F-bodys, pics & cost?
On that Sonoma, I really liked the heavy rubber pc. to protect from any debris flyin up.
What is this key u are talkin bout Jake?
That's a slick location (betw. bumper & gate), Cody. 
I'd hate to show everyone, thieves, racers & cops. But I also don't wanna cut a hole in my bumper for it even tho it's dented when a tool tapped bumper. Cause I've thought of doin this before but a few wks. ago entertained it again.
Flaming River makes nice stuff.
I was lookin at how to attach to it? 
I guess u just undo nut on bottom, slip a giant eyelet for cable around it, then tighten. Can't imagine much different.
Jake, can I see the "little box" u did near starter? It does suck u spend time & $ to relocate just to add weight back in w/. cable so big u can land a jet on a ship w/. it. 
That was another reservation I had, plus the place I went wanted some coin for all the cabling. Whatdaya figure u got into in?
I just don't want it to be tampered with. When I had Spoolins truck I always had to keep an eye on it, or put the key in the cab. For some reason, I was paranoid someone was going to steal it... I know they make the pushbutton type...I wouldn't be opposed to running one of those. Least there's no key to steal 
On that Sonoma, I really liked the heavy rubber pc. to protect from any debris flyin up.
What is this key u are talkin bout Jake?
Do a removable screw in handle, while on the street its just a little hole then screw it in for the track. You can hide it between the bumper and tailgate.
You might also check into the Dmax van battery mount. It mounts the battery down on the framerail below the front door.
;4960600]Believe its made by flaming river, its what a few of the quick street cars are running around here. Search in the projects section for 04Denali's twin turbo denali build. He had his installed in an extra spare tire lock cap. ...
You might also check into the Dmax van battery mount. It mounts the battery down on the framerail below the front door.
;4960600]Believe its made by flaming river, its what a few of the quick street cars are running around here. Search in the projects section for 04Denali's twin turbo denali build. He had his installed in an extra spare tire lock cap. ...
I'd hate to show everyone, thieves, racers & cops. But I also don't wanna cut a hole in my bumper for it even tho it's dented when a tool tapped bumper. Cause I've thought of doin this before but a few wks. ago entertained it again.
Flaming River makes nice stuff.
Like this. The Big Switch with Lever Kit - FR1003-2 - 584 - 5466 It's an on/off kit with a lever. You can un-screw the handle from the threaded rod so it barely noticeable.
I guess u just undo nut on bottom, slip a giant eyelet for cable around it, then tighten. Can't imagine much different.
Update...got the tray in. Just need to get it wired up now. What are you guys doing for wire gauge? I am seeing people use 1, 2, 0... I am going to run the biggest piece up the frame rail and branch off at a little box near the starter. 0 gauge to the box, stock starter cable from the box to starter, and then 2 gauge to the alt/fuse box. ...
That was another reservation I had, plus the place I went wanted some coin for all the cabling. Whatdaya figure u got into in?
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-11-2012 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Edit details.
09-11-2012, 10:53 PM
#34
Jake, can I see the "little box" u did near starter? It does suck u spend time & $ to relocate just to add weight back in w/. cable so big u can land a jet on a ship w/. it.
That was another reservation I had, plus the place I went wanted some coin for all the cabling. Whatdaya figure u got into in?
That was another reservation I had, plus the place I went wanted some coin for all the cabling. Whatdaya figure u got into in?
I was actually just thinking about doing a big single post terminal that I can bolt to the frame and run 3 wires to it. One to the battery, one to starter, and the other to the fuse box/alt. The fuse box and alt will be on another single post terminal, I think. I'll be running a big ground strap from the frame to the engine block as well.Once I get it all installed and operational, I'll try to get a number for ya on the cost. Don't be scared to remind me cause I'll probably forget by the time its finished
09-11-2012, 11:00 PM
#35
The **** I checked on was HD cable that wouldn't break down regardless of heat or cold. I know cold isn't somethin u need to worry bout, I do as it's my DD, incl. in the cold & snow, & must be bulletproof to corrosion w/. all the salt they put on our roads. 
IIRC, it was like really good weldin cable, -0. $160 for all materials. I think I migbhta overshot length on the cables. But I knoiw that know, just not back then. So maybe if I went back to drawin board, I could get lower cost.
IIRC, it was like really good weldin cable, -0. $160 for all materials. I think I migbhta overshot length on the cables. But I knoiw that know, just not back then. So maybe if I went back to drawin board, I could get lower cost.
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