5.3 performance
08-24-2017, 04:47 AM
#11
Boosted or NA....this is a question most people fight with.
If you go boosted, figure having about $10k set aside for whatever method of boost you choose.
Will it cost that much? After all supporting mods, it'll get close (providing you do most of the work). And that's not addressing the trans issue. You'll likely break the band with increased power (I broke my OEM 60e that was behind a 470hp LQ9 and had around 179K on it).
Is your target number at the crank or at the tire? Very different game depending on your answer.
Like others have said, nitrous or boost is the best way but as they say, "you gotta pay to play" and it gets expensive, quick.
As others have said, an lq9 (or lq4 with flattops...that's the difference between the 2) is the way to go unless you want to venture out into the 6.2 world. There are some pullouts around, you just have to look for them but even that comes with it's challenges, mainly wiring since it's a newer design and some of the sensors are in different places but there are kits to make that easier.
If that $$$ shocked you, wait for the responses to my post. It's 100% accurate.
A 6.0, healthy cam and some decent heads will get you where you want to be for a fraction of the cost, assuming you do most of the work yourself.
You can go the 6.0 longblock route from one of our vendors but again, it's not cheap. I've got nothing but great things to say about Kyle @ Thompson Motorsports.
Another option is a 408. You do this with a 6.0 block and 4in crank. Some will argue about piston skirt length/reliability/etc but search around. They make great power. It would cost you a little more this way but again cubes make power. You can run a bigger cam, which makes more power, thus reaching your goal.
If you go boosted, figure having about $10k set aside for whatever method of boost you choose.
Will it cost that much? After all supporting mods, it'll get close (providing you do most of the work). And that's not addressing the trans issue. You'll likely break the band with increased power (I broke my OEM 60e that was behind a 470hp LQ9 and had around 179K on it).
Is your target number at the crank or at the tire? Very different game depending on your answer.
Like others have said, nitrous or boost is the best way but as they say, "you gotta pay to play" and it gets expensive, quick.
As others have said, an lq9 (or lq4 with flattops...that's the difference between the 2) is the way to go unless you want to venture out into the 6.2 world. There are some pullouts around, you just have to look for them but even that comes with it's challenges, mainly wiring since it's a newer design and some of the sensors are in different places but there are kits to make that easier.
If that $$$ shocked you, wait for the responses to my post. It's 100% accurate.
A 6.0, healthy cam and some decent heads will get you where you want to be for a fraction of the cost, assuming you do most of the work yourself.
You can go the 6.0 longblock route from one of our vendors but again, it's not cheap. I've got nothing but great things to say about Kyle @ Thompson Motorsports.
Another option is a 408. You do this with a 6.0 block and 4in crank. Some will argue about piston skirt length/reliability/etc but search around. They make great power. It would cost you a little more this way but again cubes make power. You can run a bigger cam, which makes more power, thus reaching your goal.
