2004 2500HD amp draw
#1
2004 2500HD amp draw
Havent driven the truck in a while. Today the one year old battery was dead. Got it charged and put it back in. I have a .2 amp draw. When I connect the amp meter in line with the negative cable, I get .75, and after 10 seconds or so goes to .2 and stays there.
I pulled every fuse one at a time inside and under the hood with no change. Any ideas?
I pulled every fuse one at a time inside and under the hood with no change. Any ideas?
#2
Could a relay be stuck? If it weren't -6, I would go back out there and check.
EDIT-After thinking about that for a minute, the power to the relay should be fused, and I pulled them all one at a time.
EDIT-After thinking about that for a minute, the power to the relay should be fused, and I pulled them all one at a time.
Last edited by rpm-inc; 01-01-2018 at 04:00 PM.
#6
Try cigarette and radio fuse. I had a similar issue. Is your vehicle equiped with OnStar? Make sure your not opening any doors at all, which can cause the computers to wake back up.
#7
I will check those again this weekend. It was really cold and I was going pretty fast. I had the door open to pull fuses, but the latch was closed so the truck thought the door was closed.
When I initially put the meter in line with the negative battery cable, the draw is .75 amps. After 10 seconds or so, it drops to the .2 amps. I left it like that for 15 or 20 minutes, and still .2 amps, so I am assuming everything that is supposed to be sleeping is sleeping.
The hood was open, but I have no under hood light, and I didn't see any electrical connector on the latch.
When I initially put the meter in line with the negative battery cable, the draw is .75 amps. After 10 seconds or so, it drops to the .2 amps. I left it like that for 15 or 20 minutes, and still .2 amps, so I am assuming everything that is supposed to be sleeping is sleeping.
The hood was open, but I have no under hood light, and I didn't see any electrical connector on the latch.
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
iTrader: (21)
I feel for you. I had a similar issue with a .35 amp draw. Went through all the fuses to no avail. But I must have missed one fuse on my first try because on the second try I found that pulling the fuse for the audio amplifier (Bose) dropped the parasitic draw to .002 amps. A new amp and all is well.
#9
Its the ipc/dic fuse. I am going to send the cluster out for repair.
Before I found that fuse, I pulled the inline 20a fuse that came with the racetronix hotwire kit. No change in draw, but the fuse is burnt yet still working. I have a walbro 450 in the tank, -8 and -6 fuel lines. I am not even working the pump hard yet, the truck is otherwise stock. Truck will be turboed soon.
Anyways, can I safely add a bigger fuse? 30 amp? Should note that fuel pressure is 51 psi, as high as I can get it with the orifice thats in the aem adjustable fpr. I bought different orifices, but never got around to changing it to a smaller size. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
Before I found that fuse, I pulled the inline 20a fuse that came with the racetronix hotwire kit. No change in draw, but the fuse is burnt yet still working. I have a walbro 450 in the tank, -8 and -6 fuel lines. I am not even working the pump hard yet, the truck is otherwise stock. Truck will be turboed soon.
Anyways, can I safely add a bigger fuse? 30 amp? Should note that fuel pressure is 51 psi, as high as I can get it with the orifice thats in the aem adjustable fpr. I bought different orifices, but never got around to changing it to a smaller size. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
#10
Any advice on the hotwire fuse? Signed up for the online support forum, but have not been approved yet.... I don't want to call a dealer because I bought the kit direct from racetronix.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HitchAnything
Sponsor's Announcements, Sales, and Specials
1
03-21-2014 01:00 PM