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Yukon 6.2, long tube headers installed, help please

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Old 06-21-2018, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rumblebox
i'm currently going through this issue as well. the primaries hit the firewall in 2 places, and the 02 sensor hits the floor board. the driver mount is new, and the passenger mount shows hardly any movement when i torque the engine in reverse, but i'm still going to change the passenger mount before i escalate the situation with them any further.

to minimize contact in the meantime, i used a dull prybar and a hammer to persuade the sheet metal not to contact unless i give it some decent throttle.

on a side note, having to buy angled plug boots to prevent them from touching the ******* primaries would be great ******* information before buying the headers.
....


I pulled the heat shield in your last picture. No hitting.

As far as the O2 sensor I plan to remove the drivers header and beat the **** out of the floor. There isn't enough room to do so properly with the header in. As pictured with the modded sensor it doesn't hit unless I FLOOR it in 1st. Otherwise no contact. Its still damned annoying when it does hit.

Yukon 6.2, long tube headers installed, help please-7ccorms.png

Agreed on it being nice to have info about plugs and primaries. I also agree there should be changes made to the part.

Worst case scenario I weld in a new bung and plug the stock one. I have the parts ready. I'd rather not subject my headers to my welding skills though.

Yukon 6.2, long tube headers installed, help please-qtfg3at.png
Old 06-23-2018, 04:35 AM
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UPDATE:

So i replaced the right side motor mount, removed the left heat shield, and smashed in all the prior points of contact with a persuasion tool. It doesn't make contact under acceleration anymore, but now it actually rests on the frame with no load.

Somebody seriously fucked up on this batch of headers for the left side, and they refuse to admit it.

Also, the Y-pipe is too long where it meets the collectors. So you either have to cut the collectors or remove the transmission crossmember! This is the most poorly "engineered" set of headers I've ever purchased. I'm having V-bands welded in for the collectors next week too, because the slip fit connectors won't clamp tightly enough to stop leaking. They told me to buy grade 8 bolts and try again. **** off.
Old 06-23-2018, 05:01 AM
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Has anyone tried a 90-degree o2 fitting?

It looks like someone was drinking the night before they decided to place that fitting.
Old 06-23-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by tgui
Worst case scenario I weld in a new bung and plug the stock one. I have the parts ready. I'd rather not subject my headers to my welding skills though.
Flux core?
Old 06-23-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001 Sierra
Flux core?
Yes.

How bad is that?
Old 06-23-2018, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rumblebox
....

UPDATE:

So i replaced the right side motor mount, removed the left heat shield, and smashed in all the prior points of contact with a persuasion tool. It doesn't make contact under acceleration anymore, but now it actually rests on the frame with no load.

Somebody seriously fucked up on this batch of headers for the left side, and they refuse to admit it.

Also, the Y-pipe is too long where it meets the collectors. So you either have to cut the collectors or remove the transmission crossmember! This is the most poorly "engineered" set of headers I've ever purchased. I'm having V-bands welded in for the collectors next week too, because the slip fit connectors won't clamp tightly enough to stop leaking. They told me to buy grade 8 bolts and try again. **** off.
Did you expect not to remove the cross member? Thats pretty normal. I needed a mallet to tap the ypipe in place FWIW.

Get these clamps.
Yukon 6.2, long tube headers installed, help please-ixhmopx.jpg
Old 06-26-2018, 06:30 PM
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I wish this thread existed before i bought them, but at least i can save someone else the drama.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...eaders-553054/
Old 06-26-2018, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tgui
Did you expect not to remove the cross member? Thats pretty normal. I needed a mallet to tap the ypipe in place FWIW.

Get these clamps.
Poor engineering shouldn't be normal.
Old 06-26-2018, 07:44 PM
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how did you get out your stock ypipe if you didnt remove the crossmember?
Old 06-26-2018, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by randeez
how did you get out your stock ypipe if you didnt remove the crossmember?
I cut it out. That doesn't mean the aftermarket one should be just as difficult. A proper Y-pipe should take no more than 3 minutes to remove.


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