what makes caltracks better than traction bars?
#1
Thread Starter
single digit dreamer
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: omaha ne
i was looking under my truck and i think i could make some traction bars for next to nothing. is there something special about caltracks that make them worth the extra money.
my goal is to keep the springs from twisting, not weight transfer or anything like that. i am also going to put some kind of front suspension limiters on to help keep the truck from raising so much and geting all out of alignment.
my goal is to keep the springs from twisting, not weight transfer or anything like that. i am also going to put some kind of front suspension limiters on to help keep the truck from raising so much and geting all out of alignment.
#2
You can adjust preload. If you tighten the bars hard against your rear leafs, they will not budge/squat. Or, if you want some weight transfer, loosen the tension/preload and it will allow some squatting.
#3
The twisting force of the axle is leveraged to keep the springs from wraping. They apply counter-force. I haven't tried Caltracs, but I think the concept is ingenious.
Check them out:
http://www.calvertracing.com
Check them out:
http://www.calvertracing.com
#4
Thread Starter
single digit dreamer
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From: omaha ne
i am trying to see a way they would be better for me than traction bars. i do not need weight transfer and infact i think weight transfer may hurt me. i just want the truck to stay flat, no squating rear or raising front. keep the flatest contact patch on all 4 tires that i can.
then.. if i do peal out, everything should be somewhat set in place and the wheel spin would likly be smooth instead of a bunch of suspension loading and unloading. when i peal out in 4wd now the truck is all over the road, lifting and jerking from side to side. harsh. i am sure it can't be good for parts.
then.. if i do peal out, everything should be somewhat set in place and the wheel spin would likly be smooth instead of a bunch of suspension loading and unloading. when i peal out in 4wd now the truck is all over the road, lifting and jerking from side to side. harsh. i am sure it can't be good for parts.
#5
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 130
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From: Texas
hey parish...dont limit the front end of your truck...thats something you do on a drag car that slams the rear end with 1000+ hp & tq planting the tires violently...i know you make good power but in the range youre at, and being a street truck it will only contribute to tire spin... travel limiters are also used to control cars that wheelie bad by limiting weight transfer but you gotta be able to plant the rear tires in order to take advantage of it...you did have an excellent idea in another post about puttin a cell in the bed, while your at it put the batts back there too and get a fiberglass hood...weight can be your friend
#6
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single digit dreamer
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From: omaha ne
Originally Posted by Bryan TTM
hey parish...dont limit the front end of your truck...thats something you do on a drag car that slams the rear end with 1000+ hp & tq planting the tires violently...i know you make good power but in the range youre at, and being a street truck it will only contribute to tire spin... travel limiters are also used to control cars that wheelie bad by limiting weight transfer but you gotta be able to plant the rear tires in order to take advantage of it
keeping the front from raising has to maintain a flater contact patch on the tires.
#7
A lot of the Hot Rod guys run front strap limiters to keep from poping the front end up to high. My buddies go some on his Camaro. He runs 9.65's and pops the front wheels up about 6". It works real real well for him.
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#9
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 130
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From: Texas
its not hard or expensive to do...best & strongest way is to remove the upper bump stop...get a 1/2" stick of all-thread with 6 nuts...cut a 6-8" section and weld a nut on one end...pass it thru the hole where the bumpstop was but make sure when the a-arm drops the bolt head hits the flat where the bumpstop did cause its flat and wont bend or deflect the bolt...use the other two nuts above and below the a-arm where it passes thru as jam nuts and walla, adjust to suit...see if it works...but dont go buy some hunk of crap from jegs, just make one....i'm curious but skeptical bc of the power level not high enough...no dis tho man, i'm just an old dragracer who's been down the track a couplea times
#10
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single digit dreamer
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From: omaha ne
Originally Posted by Bryan TTM
its not hard or expensive to do...best & strongest way is to remove the upper bump stop...get a 1/2" stick of all-thread with 6 nuts...cut a 6-8" section and weld a nut on one end...pass it thru the hole where the bumpstop was but make sure when the a-arm drops the bolt head hits the flat where the bumpstop did cause its flat and wont bend or deflect the bolt...use the other two nuts above and below the a-arm where it passes thru as jam nuts and walla, adjust to suit...see if it works...but dont go buy some hunk of crap from jegs, just make one....i'm curious but skeptical bc of the power level not high enough...no dis tho man, i'm just an old dragracer who's been down the track a couplea times



