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Upgrades equal less power?

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Old 08-14-2018, 10:41 PM
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Like already posted needs higher stall plus the operating range of that camshaft is higher that 6000. Should be shifting around 6500 would be my guess. Post the cam specs and the recommended stall speed if it's on their www. I'd bet it's in the 32 to 3500 range. My Circle D 3200 is great behind my LQ9 and 228/230 112*
Old 08-15-2018, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by slamm69
Lq9 in a 02 excab silverado. Had custom 222/228 .598/ 589, 111+3 cam, cnc ported 317's, chambers cut to 68cc, stock intake and TB, 1 7/8 long tubes with single 3 inch exhaust. Swapped the 222/228 cam for Tick Sinister stage 1 227/235 cam, tbss intake, Warr 90 mm tb, 3" true duals. Jrx tune is spot on but the damn thing lost power? Seat of the pants gauge says alot less power down low and maybe more upstairs but not much. The truck is now pretty much a dog! Where did i go wrong?
Figured a little more cam, better intake, bigger TB and better breathing exhaust would not lose power?
So, which cam do you have? Based on the specs, that's their Stage 2 cam, not the Stage 1.

Using what you provided, 227/235 and information from their website, that cam has 11 degrees of overlap, whereas, your smaller cam has 3 degrees of overlap. What does that mean exactly?

You're bleeding off cylair because of the overlap down low, which makes it feel like a dog.

For the 227/235 cam, Tick recommends a minimum 3200 stall and a higher gear ratio.
Old 08-15-2018, 09:18 AM
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You you didnt do yourself any favors here... bigger cam and smaller stall converter will make it feel GUTLESS.
Old 08-15-2018, 12:31 PM
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It is the stage II for an LS1 not the bigger LS2 stage II, is what i meant. Sorry. I may put the 3200 back in and see how it acts. Ill get the dyno sheet and try to post it here. Not sure how acurate the factory tach is shifts right at 6000. Tick says 6400 redline and 3200+ stall.
Old 08-15-2018, 02:50 PM
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from my experience,

dual 3 inch is a little overkill,

single 3 inch makes the truck feel more snappy and torquey.

i would use the 1 3/4 headers over the 1 7/8, i actually went from pacesetters to the SE 1 7/8 and redynoed with JRX and lost low end torque and HP, i got the 1 3/4 and gained the power back.

i also have the speed engineering dual X exhaust, but at the X i used 2.5" piping all the way back.

milling those heads more will help raise compression which will help with getting more power.

i have both the warr and the holley TB and they are both great pieces, they both feel firm at the pedal.
Old 08-15-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackPanther6.0
from my experience,

dual 3 inch is a little overkill,

single 3 inch makes the truck feel more snappy and torquey.

i would use the 1 3/4 headers over the 1 7/8, i actually went from pacesetters to the SE 1 7/8 and redynoed with JRX and lost low end torque and HP, i got the 1 3/4 and gained the power back.

i also have the speed engineering dual X exhaust, but at the X i used 2.5" piping all the way back.

milling those heads more will help raise compression which will help with getting more power.

i have both the warr and the holley TB and they are both great pieces, they both feel firm at the pedal.
Exactly right!
Old 08-15-2018, 09:25 PM
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Seems i might have other issues. I see no reason why i would lose power with the upgrades. I see the convertor being a problem and i know that more duration and overlap equates to moving the power up in the rpm range so i should have a dog down low and a noticable increase up high. It is a dog in the lower rpms but i would expect more upstairs that what i have. The truck shifts way too soon beyween the gears and has some lug. One thing i felled to mention was an upgrade to a 6 gear planetary in my 4l60 which should help with having a closer ratio beteween 1st, 2nd and 3rd but the increase in first gear along with a lower stall converter is hurting the performance. I need to slow down, check cranking compression and push rod length to make sure i dont have some other issue going on. I dont think this cam is too big for the truck, i just need to het the combination of parts working together.
Old 08-16-2018, 01:07 AM
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One great mistake many folks make is going by seat of the pants feelings and not the numbers. I once put a 9" converter in my Buick. It "felt" great, snatched the tire at launch and everything. But the numbers told a different story. The short time stayed the same, the ET was a tenth of a second and nearly four mph slower than previous in cooler weather to boot. Get some passes or dyno time to be sure.
Old 08-18-2018, 05:56 AM
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Here is the dyno sheet. With some imbarrasing numbers! And heres the setup again.
LQ9
Frankenstien ported 317's, cut to 68cc
Tick stage II, ls1 cam 227/235
Tbss intake
WARR 90mm TB
1 7/8 speed engineering headers
Speed engineering 3" true dual, with x
Dual walker quiet flow mufflers
No cats
Circle d 2800
4l60 with sonnex 6 gear planetary
Old 08-18-2018, 08:48 AM
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I used to have a speed shop. Most of the time, I made cars faster by taking off all the junk other people had sold them. Make one change and test it. Before dynos were on every corner, we had to go to the track. So it took a lot of discipline to make ONE change to the car, drive out to the track, make 3 or 4 runs and do it all over again after the next mod. However, doing so shows you right quick what works and what doesn't work and exactly what the gains or losses were for each selection.


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