When the tranny was bolted to the engine was there room between the converter and flex plate before they were bolted together?

Did you see the thrust bearing? Is it only wore on the back or front, or is it wore on the back of the cap, and the front of the block or vice sersa?

 

From what I have seen/read anything under 50 PSI in the cooler lines and you should be fine. Check before and after the cooler to look for a restriction. Did you check thrust before and after, curious what the difference was.

Chris

 

It was wore on the backside/trans-side of the cap. And yes there was proper spacing between the converter and the flexplate.

The .008" feeler gauge fit but the cap were loose by then. I know that isn't much but there was a bunch of cooper floating around and I didn't like it.

I ordered a pressure gauge to check things out once I got the block back and assembled. We'll see what I come up with.

But I feel its trans related....like Blown06 said...somethings pushing....Now I just have to find out how and why.

 

Im going with the motor wasnt assembled correctly. Look at it from process of elimination....trans was fine before, highly doubt the converter or cooler themselves are causing it, cam didnt do it....that leaves the rebuild suspect in my mind. I run high pressures in all my 4l60s and don't wipe out thrusts. I did once but I believe it was a converter issue as mine happened not long after a converter install < the variable.

 

Lets do a little exercise here..........answer this question:

Exactly how would you assemble a motor to intentionally destroy the rear face of the thrust only?

 

Crank end play way too tight, not centering the crank, or the thrust bearing not installed properly

 

Not performing 10

 

If he didn't check the crankshaft endplay when building the motor there is a chance his thrust bearing was too tight from the start. Then add a little pressure from the trans/converter and it could have been enough to destroy it. What bearings did you use, CF7GO?

Did you measure converter pad to bellhousing depth when you installed the converter? Or did you "count clicks"? Ending up with perfect converter-flexplate spacing is possible, but most of the aftermarket converters I've dealt with, needed shims.

 

What I would do is take pliers and bend the rear thrust face outward, so it can make sweet love to the crank thrust surface.

 

The whole point of the question is that you can't. I see some of you talking about not setting the cap with a hammer and whatever. But the question was, intentionally destroy the "rear" face of the the thrust. Improper engine building would have the front and the back fucked up. Not just the back.