To Stroke or not to Stroke, that is the ????? HELP!
 

While attempting to Cam my 03 SS AWD Silverado I snapped the ARP Balancer Bolt on removal......it didnt make it all the way out, about 65% is still in the crank which the machine shop MAY be able to remove.

Pulled Engine and ripped it down to a Bare Block n Crank

Piston side skirts are worn, everything else looks fine.

So now Im thinking if Im going to rebuilt this thing w new rings and bearings threw out and buy a set of Pistons should i just bite the bullet and order a 408 stroker kit and be done w it....

Main Concern and reason for post, I already have bought 8.1l Truck injectors (not Marines)

7.4'' TSP Push Rods already in

Cam is NIB and its a 217/217 .617/.617 114+5 (Set up to run w Stock Converter)

255lph Fuel Pump already installed in truck

LT's on the way No Cats

IF I stroke this set up will I have enough injectors w the 8.1l's..?????

and will the Cam I have work w a 408 Set up?

Holy cow man... How did you snap that big Ass bolt??? I would have went with the marine 8.1 injectors to be safe. I have them and no where near full buty cycle. Cam is kinda smallish for my taste for a 408.

Are you just going for an NA build? If so, you will probably be fine with what you already have.

Do it. You know you want to. At this point if you don't you'll be kicking yourself later.

Well I called Scoggin Dicky and they got my Money on a Brand New Short Block for a deal!
GenIV 6.0 Block, Bored out and loaded w L92 Pistons and Rods
Shipped to my Door w All the Gen IV Conversion Plates and harnesses for $2300 area

My old LQ9 will be fixed and going in my S10!!

Now my SS is Awd so which headers to go with.....

Well I always used Red Loctite on Balancer Bolts on all my LSX Builds and done plenty of them after seeing a few back out w Blue Loctite and Trq to 240ft lbs (Or whatever the GM Spec is for that, I could be off, my notes are in the shop)

Used Red and NEVER had an issue backing the bolts out

This is the first time I've used an ARP Bolt w a stock GM Balancer and herd that the ARP is a touch longer and not supposed to be used a a stock balancer....

This is just from what Ive read online and kinda call BS but i dont know for sure

NOW I backed mine out w the impact and she stopped dead after backing out only an inch.....Tried to run it back in and only went 1/2" and wouldnt re tighten.....

Buddy looked at me and said "breaker bar?!?!"
I knew this was gonna end bad and w the Engine having 185k on it I said screw it, if it breaks I'm pulling it out for a freshening up...

So 1/2 Drive Breaker Bar w my Floor Jack Handle and she back out some more and than came the busted knuckles, blood, and a broken ARP "reusable" bolt lol

ARP was cool enough to tell me they would send me another bolt for my troubles but i haven't seen it yet....

Either way i wont be using there bolt again unless its for a high HP build and a ATI Balancer

Nothing against ARP, shit happens!

Wow.. did not know this. I have never broke any ARP stuff. Glad Im using the SLP 25% under driven balacer. I have to admit, torque that bad boy to spec is a big pita!

3 grown men and a breaker bar and jack handle achieved the ARP spec 240 lb/ft. Was the ARP bolt threads and underside of the 12 point head lubed with the AR
P lube when it was originally installed? I'm sure at 240 there's a hell of a pre- load, (bolt streatch going on) and threads pulling to the point of galling. Never heard of one breaking on the way out, but I do heat mine with a localized propane torch just in case the guy before me went crazy with locktite.

I have Kooks 1.75" headers and catted Y for a 4wheel drive and the fit is perfect.

Check my signature, I'm running same SSS AWD drivetrain.