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idle issues...what needs to be upgraded?
heres the scenerio...226 112 cam in an ls1.
everything worked PERFECT before the cam. installed the cam and it wouldnt idle at all. took it to my tuner (VERY good reputation) and he got it idling on its own most of the time but something else was wrong besides the tune. we spent literally hours jacking with the idle tune trying to get it to stay alive on its own. we narrowed the problem down to my modified throttle body next day i called up the guy who built my throttle body (shaners) and had a lengthy chat with him. he told me how to adjust the blade and reset the TPS so that the idle didnt go crazy when i adjust the blade. now it starts great, i can turn on the ac without it dying on decel, but its still giving me a fit every once n a while. i can kill it on purpose by (in neutral) revving the engine to about 2k rpm with the AC on full blast...then when i let off the gas to idle down i turn the steering wheel and it dies. is that not enough battery? i have an asp underdrive without the overdrive alt pulley (105 alt) it also gives me fits on cold startup when i put it into gear. if it dosent die immediatly when i put it in gear, it will when i let off the brake without any gas. i figure thats because i jacked with the throttle body after my tuner had the tune messed with to accomidate for the lack of air my truck was getting at idle. but with the ac revving and turning the wheel scenario, is that not enough alt power working against me or is the problem elsewhere? |
its in the tune
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:stupid: Tx... Check ya PMs.
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Do you have hpt? i would check your stall saver settings and bump them a little bit, that should keep you from stalling. Also what is your idle set to? You should also check your throttle cracker and throttle follower tables and bump them if need be. Thats my $.02 anyways...
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well i have a modified throttle body on there so were thinking that is the biggest problem. weve messed with throttle cracker and follower tables until were bule in the face. guess ill just end up getting a stocker to fix this issue
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what do you mean modified throttble body? its either ported or not ported. not a huge deal. now if the person that ported it messed around to much around the IAC then you could have issues.
your cam isnt large by any means to have issues. |
Originally Posted by Quik
what do you mean modified throttble body? its either ported or not ported. not a huge deal. now if the person that ported it messed around to much around the IAC then you could have issues.
your cam isnt large by any means to have issues. I bumped stall saver up across the board using several different increments, and modifying idle tables to stay above that. No change in idling... good or bad. My vote is airflow. If the TB has been drilled, actual idle airflow has increased... hence, Base RAF is lower than with the use of stock TB, and should be increased. Computer's looking to operate fuel delivery a base range (or starting point). If it cannot stay within that base parameter, it'll try to do it's best to compensate... more/less air & more/less fuel. Give the computer a more accurate range, and you'll see better results. |
when drilling the tb along with using the screw. you need to keep track of the TPS voltage. you want it between .4 -.6 most ppl just turn the screw to help idle and this now sets the ecu into a different chart to run off. also by dialing in the tps voltage you also want to keep track of IAC counts. but these two steps are mostly overlooked
this is how you get your ride to idle and anyone thats even a moddest tuner would know that and his 226 baby cam isnt hard to dial in. |
Originally Posted by Quik
when drilling the tb along with using the screw. you need to keep track of the TPS voltage. you want it between .4 -.6 most ppl just turn the screw to help idle and this now sets the ecu into a different chart to run off. also by dialing in the tps voltage you also want to keep track of IAC counts. but these two steps are mostly overlooked
this is how you get your ride to idle and anyone thats even a moddest tuner would know that and his 226 baby cam isnt hard to dial in. |
Originally Posted by Quik
when drilling the tb along with using the screw. you need to keep track of the TPS voltage. you want it between .4 -.6 most ppl just turn the screw to help idle and this now sets the ecu into a different chart to run off. also by dialing in the tps voltage you also want to keep track of IAC counts. but these two steps are mostly overlooked
this is how you get your ride to idle and anyone thats even a moddest tuner would know that and his 226 baby cam isnt hard to dial in. i just set my screw without hp for temporary driving. when i do end up setting the screw with hp i want the tps voltage at .4-.6 and where do i want the IAC counts? i have a great tuner...just a throttle body that couldnt take in enough air at idle because of the fillling and drilling...its a shaners throttle body...heres what it looks like http://www.s2performance.net/s31.jpg |
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