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DIY headwork basics

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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:56 AM
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Question DIY headwork basics

I also posted this in internal engine but I wanted to see what you guys had to say too...
I have a spare set of 5.3 heads that I want to clean up and put on the truck when my new FMS custom grind cam goes in. I dont plan on hoging anything out. I am basicly just going to clean up all the casting flash and such. What are some other things I need to do and what do I need to watch out for?
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Old May 4, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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You should be ok as long as you don't make any radical changes to the port sizes or shapes.Be sure to use materals that are that won't gauld the aluminum surfaces then have someone do a good multi-angle valve job and resurface the heads for a good head gasket seal.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 11:13 AM
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I don't know about these specific heads but just 'cleaning' them up should be ok. I know summit and Jegs sell a porting kit that comes with all the stuff to do it. You'll need an air-die grinder. I would sudgest a 90* one, it's easier to work with.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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I've ported a couple of sets. Its time consuming, but if you have time...

I used a Mr Gasket porting kit. I spent time looking at pics of ported heads and researched as much as I could before I started. Follow whitt1's suggestions and take it easy.

I used a rubber mat on top of my work table to lessen the chances for hurting the surface while porting.

Buy a good flex shaft 1/4 colletts rotary tool. I used a heavy duty Dremel brand with the foot controls: (I love this thing!!!)
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/flexshft.html

Don't try to remove the casting material with rotary grinding stones, they will just get clogged up with aluminum.

Dont try to remove all the material with just sand paper dowels, you'll eat them up quickly.

Buy a nice rotary file with long 1/4" shaft.
http://www.carbidebur.com/automotive.html

Stay off the contact area of the valve seats.

Remove as much of the casting with the file, then smooth out with the sand paper dowels. Polish with the buffers that come with the kit.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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dang kenny, you trying to hit 11's now or what. seems like you are setting up for it pretty nicely!
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Old May 4, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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Cam across this while searching the net:
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm
Eventhough this is a set of older 305 heads, do the same basic pricipals still apply as for leaving some texture in the intake port? How about port matching the intake ports?
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Old May 4, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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I don't think you want to really start changing the shape of the ports. Just clean all the casting material, blend the area where the valve seat fits into the head, and cut down the material around the stem.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 09:32 PM
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That standard abrasive kit is the same kit i am using to port my 6.0l heads right now. I also have a micro-air dye grinder that came in really handy in the intake ports. I did use some stuff that was not included in the kit like some different types of sanding wheels and some special shaped metal removing bits. but i just got most of that stuff from one of my friends that works at a machine shop. for just a general clean up of the bowl area and flashing removal you probably wouldn't need all that. I removed a good amount of material and i hoping it pays off.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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More than likely all I will do is a little bowl work and clean up all the casting flash. I may try to polish the combustion chamber and exhaust ports too. How about the intake port? With port fuel injection do you still want to keep a little texture to create a small amount of turbulance for fuel atomization?
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Old May 5, 2004 | 12:50 AM
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Don't the injectors spray so the fuel is atomized anyway? I don't believe I've seen any big ported/polished heads with casting flash in or on the intake port/runner area.
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