Bullet proof 6.0L..
 

Hey guys, I just put my hands on a 6.0 iron block, no pistons no nothing, and that works perfect for me cause I want to build a bullet proof 6.0 that I can throw some serious PSI with a Trick turbo kit I will get...
I will do ARP's all around..
I can put my hands on a pair of 799 heads, I do not have to mill them cause they are going in a turbo setup right??
What type/brand pistons, rods, crankshaft, rings should I get???
I will put my TBSS intake & tb..
Want to put a custom build cam (will try to get a hold of Stock48 to spec me one)
So PLEASE guys, any advice will be greatly appreciated!!

what cubic inch do you want to end up with? if you arent wanting to go over 370 you can stay with a stock crank, they have been proven at well over 1000hp. I would say diamond or mahle pistons, those are just my personal preference, to each his own on that though.

I'd call comp and tell them the setup once you have it completely built and have them spec a camshaft for the setup and planned use of the truck.

I really like the 370 engine. I went with an Eagle crank with the stock stroke. If I hadnt messed up my stock crank I would have just used that. I use Callies Compstar rods with Wiseco pistons. If I had to do it over again I would use L92 heads if you are getting new pistons anyways. The pistons are cheaper and the heads are very reasonable, and flow much better.

Wouldnt it be a good idea to put a good crankshaft??
So, in order to build a 370 I just need bigger pistons??

Like I said stock cranks have been proven to well over 1000 hp. The eagle cranks aren't that expensive so if you want to go with a pod crank and have the money you can. If I was going to spend te money on a forge crank I'd personally go to a 4" stroke though since the cranks are the same cost. The 370 is a 6.0L with 0.030" over bore and stock crank.

If you are planning serious boost, go with a complete balanced rotating assembly, especially if all you have is a bare block. The shorter stroke of a 370 has advantages over the longer stroke when boosted.

TSP 370 C.I.D. LQ4/LQ9/LY6 Rotating Assembly

How much boost can I add to a 370 with the right parts?? And what conpression should I lean towards in my engine.. I do 1/16th of a mile sand drag race so I need quick response with the less turbo lag possible...

such as? bigger engine will make more power with boost than a smaller one, if not the big dogs would be building small stroke engines instead of big block turbo engines.

He didn't say it was overall better or will create more power. But the shorter the stroke the faster the turbo will spool.

You really don't need an aftermarket crankshaft for 1000hp with an LS motor. With 6 bolt mains and how beefy the caps are in these motors vs. older SBC's the stock crank can take some punishment. It's also relatively strong as well for a stock production crankshaft. It has been proven to handle 1000hp for years. Much over 1200hp from what I've seen doesn't go too well for too long. Utilize whatever dish piston it takes to achieve a 9.2:1-9.8:1 compression ratio with your 799 heads stock chamber volume.

The comment made about the shorter stroke in an iron block or stock aluminum LS block is true...although not as prevalent in aluminum blocks due to a longer sleeve. Due to sleeve length, with a 4.0" stroke crankshaft a relatively moderate amount of the pistons skirt is exposed with no support at bottom dead center. This allows for the piston to rock in it's bore at BDC. Coatings have come an extremely long way as have developing the correct tolerances for piston to wall clearance, so 4.0" stroke cranks aren't causing quite the issues that they once were. You can get your entire piston DLC hard anodized coated as well instead of the crown and using a moly skirt coating. Coating will not save your piston though with a 4.0" stroke crank all by itself in terms of skirt wear. The best coatings and the wrong clearances will cause just as much wear as messing it up in the other ways mentioned earlier.

I'm a fan of Callies H-beam rods in an application like this and Wiseco pistons. That said, CP pistons are another company that make a very nice piston as well.

Setting up the cylinder heads and valve springs for optimum pressures by adjusting installed height is important. Just doing such can be worth large gains in a turbo application. A good cam guy can provide the parts and information necessary for you to set up the cylinder heads yourself and/or have your machinist/engine builder set the cylinder heads up on the bench. With a turbo motor this is very important due to the pressures that are seen in a turbo engine both in the inlet and exhaust tracts, especially the exhaust.

Have you decided upon a turbocharger to use yet? For 1000hp a S476R cast compressor wheel 96mm turbine wheel with 1.32 AR housing would work very well. I honestly wouldn't go much larger than that for 1000hp. Possibly a S480 with the same exhaust wheel/housing arrangement.

Hopefully this information helps you to make a more informed decision on your purchases!