what, how much, and where does a 6.0L bare block need to be clearanced for the 4" stroke rotating assembly (408)

i know it will need to be bored .030 over

 

I don't think it needs to be clearanced at all???

I've been doing research and talked to several machine shops and nobody has mentioned it.

If I'm wrong though I need to know about it within the next week

 

i was thinkin i heard 1slow01z71 say something about it a week or so ago and i plan on building a 408 in the future and i originally was going to get a tsp shortblock but no i think i am going to get a bare block from sdpc and build it myself any machine shop knows how to bore it .030 over but id probably have to explain to them about clearancing if it was needed

 

If you have the machine shop balance your rotating assy too you can probably have them test-fit the crank to see if it clears. I thought Cody's clearance issue had something to do with the pistons clearing the crank due to wrist pin configuration, but I could be wrong

 

My problems were with counterweight to wrist pin clearance and that was because I have a 4.100 stroke crank not a 4". You will not need to do any clearancing, I didnt even have to with the 4.100 stroke as far the block goes. You will need the cut off the front 1/4 of the windage tray to clear the counterweights up front but other then that nothing else has to be messed with.

 

Ok, so I was close...

 

i wasnt referring to your setup slow but you telling someone else what to doin their setup

does anyone have a pic of their windage tray and how much they cut for a 408

 

 

The block won't need to be clearanced for an Eag;e 4" crank I know.

If you're using an Eagle crank, rods, and Diamond -2cc pistons, you will need to notch the #8 piston skirt slightly for the reluctor wheel on the crank.

That was the only issue the machine shop told me about, other than that, he said the parts all went together like they were made to fit!

 

You can order the pistons clearanced for the reluctor and balanced